Next attempt coming up

Not sure whether I measured incorrectly, or my weight has changed in the interim. Got my first bodice done, and needed to do some alterations. Front neck is surprisingly high for some reason, need the typical for me sway back, and bicep alterations. I usually do my sway back adjustment at my waist, so figured I was okay there. Not. From the pictures, it appears I am getting a much more forward neck than I've ever had before, and slightly rounded shoulders which I also didn't have before. Think it's time to start doing pushups every day. :P}

First set of pics...

 

 

So the next iteration is on the drawing board. Dropped the front neckline and took 1/4" out of the shoulder at the neck, tapering to nothing at the shoulder. Did a 1" sway back adjustment about mid lower back, above the dart, but below the arms. I also added 3/8" to the back side seam because that looks a little tight. Increased the bicep by 1" ~ even though it looks okay, it feels a little tight. After the next draft I will look and see if I need to cut the rear armscye in a little from the shoulder all the way down.

I have the draft redone and the back has the darts sewn. The front is cut out but not marked yet. Too bad I have to work today. I'll try to be really focused and get work done early so I can move on to my second muslin and see how that works. I'm quite encouraged with this as it's the best "first" muslin I've ever come out with. Can't wait to have it fitted well and get to making clothing!

More later!

 

 

Some pictures.

First the kits I bought, dress, shirt and pants with the videos, booklets and stylus.

Next the bodice front and my completed bodice front

 

The bodice back and my completed back

 

 

 

 

 

The sleeve and my completed sleeve

 

 

 

 

 

The only actual alteration I made other than the ones indicated in the manual for full bust and full bicep is my standard back neck adjustment where I remove 1/2 inch from the center back neck tapering to nothing at the neck edge.  

 



I do have the muslin cut out. It's on a gingham that will help me with grainlines and balance. After work today I anticipate stitching it together, and hopefully I'll have a full front bodice sloper with sleeve.

 

 

More later!

 

 

 



The down & dirty on the Sure Fit decision.

Well, time for true confessions I guess. If you've noticed, I post pictures of my garments, but not of myself in them, or at least rarely of myself in them. It's because at this point in my life I am not happy with the way I look.

I have been working with various "professionals" for the last six years or so trying to get my health issues straightened out so that I can eat normally and not continue to gain weight. My favorite was a Nutritionist that promised to help, and had me eating more and more and more whole grains, at the end even including wheat berries, which actually led me to someone else who was able to diagnose me with Celiac's, which is gluten intolerance. That was a 30 pound gain over about 3 months that hasn't gone away yet. I have had multiple promises of a fix, using "their way", spent hundreds and hundreds of dollars, with no results. But I think I now have a handle on all of the issues, and will be working through this myself. Seeing what Shams was able to do has given me a new outlook and even though I'm not going Vegan, I am hoping for some results.

I have taken flat pattern classes at college level, and given enough time and patience, I can totally draft patterns for myself. In fact, I took Don McCunn's pants class in person in San Francisco many years ago. I have drafted a few hundred pair of pants by now I expect. I haven't bought any RTW pants for at least 10 years other than in emergency situations...on vacation and the weather wasn't what I anticipated, or moved and clothes weren't here, nor was my sewing machine, patterns, fabric etc. Partially because RTW clothing doesn't fit me. Hasn't since I was in my 30s and a perfect size 8.

The problem is not in the drafting. It's the fitting. Well, and to be honest, I probably haven't had the same measurements two months in a row in the last ten years, so it's the never ending redraft. I have some health things, and I hate to sweat, but love to eat, so yadda, yadda, yadda. I am once again on a new program that is supposed to help me get to "goal" and stay there. Unfortunately, that's about 85 pounds from here. That's a huge sigh you just heard. And I have passed the mid point of my 60s, and frankly, things are falling! LOL

So long story, but I generally make all of my clothes, with a few exceptions. I kind of giggle at the Me Made Months that everyone gets involved in because I expect I do me made years. :P}} We live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, so I don't make coats. I have a rain coat that's probably a London Fog or a London Fog knock off, and other than very rare occasions, that's my winter coat. I generally will buy a cashmere sweater or two in the fall/winter just because I love them and would be afraid to buy cashmere and make it up just in case I lost my mind and messed it up. I have made bras, (again, the pattern isn't my size anymore) panties, tops, pants, skirts, and dresses. Not that I wear dresses any more. I live in self drafted pants, but I'm not loving the fit any more and I'm not sure what's going on and how to fix it.

I want a good fitting bodice sloper so I can take that and make tops that fit my unique shape and figure. My usual pattern alterations before I even get into the nitty gritty is to drop the center back neck by a half inch, tapering to nothing at the shoulders. Narrow sloping shoulder adjustment. FBB adjustment, which is full bust and full belly. Sway back adjustment, not because I have a sway back, but because I have a round butt and a high hip. Bodacious arm adjustment. Length adjustments. Then I do a muslin and try to adjust the rest of the fit. Sometimes I have wadders and sometimes I have tops that I can and do wear in public.

I'm hoping with Glenda's help, I can do this once, figure out the "major" adjustments I need for this draft, and then as I drop inches, just keep redrafting with the basic adjustments to the pattern.

Today was the first day that I have really taken the time to draft the bodice pattern. I had started before, then realized that I had to adjust both the front and back bodice due to the bodacious arms. So on the front, I had already made a few mistakes that were exed out, so just redid that knowing I had to change a few things. On the back, I just made the adjustment at the underarm and I am good to go.
So as of about 7:30 pm tonight, I have a bodice and sleeve draft ready to start cutting out. I'm using a gingham for the muslin so I can be sure grain lines are right, and that's going to get cut out this week, and sewn together. I'm hoping there will only be minor tweaks, but who knows.

I've been taking a few pictures as I go along, so I'll try to get them uploaded in the next few days.

More later!

Just a few minutes today to write. I'm SO EXCITED! I purchased the Sure Fit Designs dress, shirt, and then subseqently the trouser kit, the video, and the jeans video. The dress and shirt kits came late last week, so they are next in the queue.
I do have a pretty good fitting trouser pattern, but since I also signed up for the retreat in October, I needed to get Glenda's trouser kit too, so that was ordered Saturday.
Working very long hours, but have traced off the bodice front to give myself a little thrill. Back will be next, then sleeves. Not too concerned about the "skirt" part of the dress, but I do want to have the top fitted and soon. Can't wait to actually have a well fitting sloper.
I'll also be doing a shirt for Dale, so he will be happy to have something for him too I expect.

I will keep you posted on progress as it happens!

Things getting more or less back to normal around here. As usual, I’m working way too many hours. Dale is getting back on his feet and has even begun painting again, which is a really good thing. We’re having an on and off again argument about him going back to work. I keep telling him he’s retired, and he keeps saying he needs to feel he’s contributing. I come back with his new job is now to take care of me. He’s not real up on the househusband thing. :P}}

I am finally getting ready to return to my sewing. Thank goodness. Have been piddling here and there with a few things, but no productive sewing has been coming out of my studio to speak of. Did get a new aqua Margarita top done for the hot weather we’re having, but between relearning about sick husbands, high school graduations, parties, and work, I haven’t had a lot of time.

I do read Stitcher’s Guild pretty regularly and keep in touch with what’s going on via my favorite blogs. On occasion, I do veer off into new blog territory when I find something interesting on one of the blog favs or Stitcher’s Guild that happens to resonate with me.

I have continued to struggle with the weight issues and the fitting issues. I have been trying various things recommended by everyone from the trainer at my gym, (who is obviously into wanting people to “bulk up”), to the Internist, to the Acupuncturist, to an attempt to do a gluten free Weight Watchers, and finally threw in the towel and went to a Nutritionist at my HMO. I perhaps see light at the end of the tunnel. I got some good information from her, and some suggestions for “chair exercises” that I can do that won’t further damage my knee.

With the hopes that I will be finally going steadily downward to my goal weight, I have been contemplating how I can continue to stay relatively well clothed while continuing with making TNT patterns, and I'm hoping I can continue to adapt the TNT to my new size as the weight disappears.

I watch and learn from others with the patterns they are using, and have found a few new pattern companies I adore. I already loved Hot Patterns, Pamela's Perfect Tee and others, and have been pleased with Petite Plus Patterns. But finding Style Arc has been a real boon. I love their fresh ideas and styles!

All of a sudden, out of the blue, I have been hearing a lot about Sure Fit Designs. Although they’ve been around forever, all of a sudden, it seems to be the rage, and most everyone using them has been raving about their fabulous results using the system. I read a four page thread on SG about them, and then went to the website and started reading and watching videos.

To make a long story slightly shorter, I purchased the dress and shirt kits, and have signed up for a retreat in October. I’m very excited about the retreat. I expect I’ll have my body blueprint done long before October, but at least I can go and get additional help with fit and styling. Even though I have a good self-drafted pants pattern, I want to do the jeans too, and I’m hopeful that I will be down 25 or so pounds by then, (hoping for 2 a week, which is probably a bit optimistic, but that’s 17 weeks from today, so who knows!)

I’m working through the weekend, but hope to be caught up by Wednesday, and then I’ll be starting with the body blueprint. (In my group, we call it a sloper, and I believe in other areas it’s called a toile~ Glenda Sparling, owner of Sure Fit calls it a body blueprint.)

I’ll try to record my journey here between the new eating plan and the new pattern progress.

More later!

 

 

 

 

 

 

One helluva couple of weeks!

Well, it was a lovely vacation, but, as always, we were happy to get home, pick up our dogs from the kennel and get back into our normal lives.

My best client had been waiting on pins and needles for me to get back and filled my calendar pretty quickly. I was back to work the day after we got home, and even did a Saturday appointment, which is almost unheard of. I continued working throughout the weekend, trying to get caught up on regular work, accounting, and all the rest.

Monday the 4th dawned, with another full week scheduled. Then on Tuesday evening, Dale woke me up with the news he thought he was having a heart attack, and it went downhill from there. It turned out he had most definitely had a heart attack. We went to "our" Kaiser facility about 20 miles away, and they wound up admitting him that evening.

Wednesday they informed us he needed surgery, and they would be sending him to either San Francisco or Santa Clara, which are the location of the Cardiac units. Wound up, he got to ride in an ambulance with a nurse in attendance in addition to the EMT. But he was disappointed they didn't use sirens. :P}} We were thrilled with the facilities in Santa Clara, but the 90 mile drive one way was a bit of a drag.

Long story short, a Cardiac Catheterization showed he needed a bypass. Next day was a quadruple bypass. Then Cardiac ICU, regular hospital, and a week later we returned home. We're trying to figure out a new routine now that will work for both of us when I return to work on Wednesday. He's always been in charge of his own breakfast and lunch because our time frames are different. No more. He's up with me and we're trying to coordinate our internal clocks to be in sync. I think it will take a little bit of a balancing act for a bit to get three meals a day on the table, still work full time and figure out a time to sew.

I'm thrilled he's okay, and our 11th Anniversary yesterday became a reality. The celebration was a little different than I anticipated, but all the more sweet because we were together.

Please hug your spouse and/or partner and think about how much they mean to you. It was a really big eye opener to remember to let the little things go and celebrate your life together. Also, despite the fact you think you're healthy, to listen a bit to the doctors. Watch your diet and get the exercise they recommend. To take the time to do the things that you enjoy and not worry about the small stuff.

Lucky for us, at 65 he's still doing construction and is in very good shape, so his healing is progressing much faster than anticipated. But we do have a good six weeks or so of recovery, so if you don't hear from me often, remember, I'm here in spirit, and even if I'm not sewing in reality, I am sewing in my dreams and day dreams! :P}}

Now I need to figure out how to make time for everything and let go of some of the external stresses that I really don't need in my life.

A wonderful Saint Patrick's Day to you all!

And we're back!

 

Well, it's been a few weeks since I posted. A busy few weeks in more ways than one. Work, as usual, has been super busy. It's a good thing when I think about it, but does cut into my personal life and sewing time a bit. Initially I was trying to get a little ahead to take care of all vacation expenses including missing income for while we were gone. Fortunately, or unfortunately, whichever way you look at it, it looks like this year will be an amazing year business wise for me. The housing market is starting to pick up, and due to the incredibly low interest rates, some people are able to refinance their loans into lower rates. As a group, Real Estate Appraisers in this area are typically nearing retirement, and I think a few more have left the business as I get calls from people every day that I haven't worked with before. Good for me all the way around. 

Before we left, I finished the rayon batik tee. My TNT Pamela's perfect tee shirt, short sleeved, Stash fabric, not sure when or where I got it. That's been worn several times and is a great addition to the wardrobe.



Brown Batik Tee

I got most of the next tee done, and finished the hems last night, so that's in rotation now. It's a ecru ivory Lacoste cotton mesh knit, bought on sale from Denver Fabrics. I have a tank already from the fabric, and enough left over for a short sleeved tee too. Having three nice tops for $21.50 reminds me why I sew. :P))

The next item is a "wearable muslin" of the Style Arc Franki top. The fabric isn't one that you'll see on me often, but for days off in the summer, it's a happy top IMO. It's a rayon knit that feels wonderful. I've made some panties (knickers for my sisters across the pond) out of it too, and I think there's enough left for another pair or two. Super comfortable fabric for those! There are still some issues with it, but generally, it's okay. Need to figure out why I have lines running from my neck down to the bust line. That's for when I have a few moments to sit and read my fitting books.


Tan Tee and StyleArc Franki Muslin

I have the Burda top (#2998, OOP?) on the cutting board now. I think the fabric will be super for it. It's a beautiful rayon woven that I've had in my stash for a long time. I think it was initially slated for a dress when I wore them a long time ago. Although the background is black, there are grey swirls, and the beiges, tans, and creams that fit with my SWAP quite well. I also have the next pair of pants ready to go. They're a cotton twill, as usual, in a kind of taupe color. They'll be my standard quarter pocket pants for work.

Burda #2998 top
 

Taupe Pants Ready to Go
 

Still need to get the sleeves copied for my Butterick 5616 top, and it's coming up after these two. And I have the rayon-microfiber chocolate brown pinstripe washed and ready to go get pinned and cut for slacks too. I'm debating whether I want to do those with quarter pockets, inseam pockets, or welt pockets. I think the welts may make the cut this time!

Our vacation was fabulous. 60+ family members all in beach houses in Southern California from Wednesday through Sunday, and a big wonderful, emotional 50th wedding anniversary party for my sister and brother in law Saturday night. Besides Dale and I, both daughters, one with spouse, and 5 of my granddaughters got to visit and be there. My sister has 8 kids with spouses, and most of her 44 grand kids and 8 great grand kids were there. It was one big love fest and lots of laughter, tears, and fun. We're planning to repeat it in 2015!



Blue house downstairs unit ours


View from our porch
 

Relaxing on my porch
 

 



Sunset from my porch at the beach


Another sunset from the porch

 

We got back Monday evening, and I had a pile of orders waiting for me, so needed to get busy with work, so the planned day or two of down time and sewing didn't happen. I don't ordinarily do inspections on the weekend, but I even went and did one yesterday. An unusual property, in the Sacramento Delta. Dale and I went together, and due to the uniqueness and trying to find similar properties spent several hours riding around on various islands and branches of the rivers and sloughs of the Delta looking at houses and marinas, and all the rest. Even though I don't usually work on Saturday, knowing this inspection would take several hours, Saturday was the way to go.

So today, I'm typing an appraisal, running in to Hancock Fabrics to pick up thread and needles, etc., on their big sale, and then hopefully sewing on my pants and cutting out my blouse before I crash. We'll see how much I get done today!

I've added a few pictures not only of the garments, but also snippets of my vacation. It was so relaxing and lovely, I'm still basking in the afterglow!

Enjoy your week and I'll try to catch up and keep posting!

Map the Sewists

Really cool idea. I want to share with all of you! From this website:

http://anothersewingscientist.blogspot.com/2013/02/map-sewintists-goes-live.html

Map the Sewintists goes live!
I had a brain wave yesterday morning while I was supposed to be herding kids out to the car for a road trip to Ontario:  how can sewing and crafty people find each other IRL and never miss another meetup?

I quickly slapped together that post, and thanks to Shannon for pointing me in the right direction, and to Gillian for being my first tester, we're ready to go live!

Here's how to participate:

Open this link to get to Map the Sewintists
Click on the red Edit button on the left
Click on the blue pin on the upper left of the map
Click on your location to drop the pin
A box will open that will allow you to add your name or blog URL in rich text
Save et voilà!

**********update from users:  it appears that you cannot pin if you are using a mobile device / tablet; also, you may need to use Firefox since other browsers may not work; finally, you must be signed into your google account.  If worse comes to worst and you can't pin after trying all this, just comment below with your location and info you want to include, and I'll pin you!

I would strongly advise people to only pin their general location or closest city, since we don`t want creepers peeping in our windows while we sew in our unders, do we?

Gillian and I have also added some fabric shopping locations around the world, so please share your collective wisdom!  I'm going to start spreading the word online.  If you like the idea, please reblog so that we can get the word out to everyone who feels isolated from the "cool kids" in NYC and London  ;)

Hopefully this will develop into a useful resource for all of us around the world.
Again, here's the website. Look how many of us there are already~
http://anothersewingscientist.blogspot.com/2013/02/map-sewintists-goes-live.html

Catching up. The excitement is building!

The work schedule is continuing at a dizzying pace, and we are looking forward to going on vacation next week, so I want to get as much work done as possible. Everyone thinks being self employed is wonderful, and at times it is, but what they don't think about is you don't get paid vacations. That means for vacation, you have to cover the missed income plus what you'll be spending or your finances wind up kind of upside down. To that end, I've been adding a few jobs into an already full schedule, which leaves little time for sewing or for me!

We're going to San Diego for my sister and brother-in-law's 50th Anniversary. I can't believe that they've been married so long! Although they got married quite young, it doesn't seem possible that we're all so old. We'll be staying at the beach in Oceanside, and for the first time in probably about 20 years, my children with spouses and grands, and my sister and brother-in-law, and all their 8 children with spouses, grands and great-grands will be within a few blocks along the beach in rented beach houses. I expect somewhere in the neighborhood of 120 of us! AMAZING!!! Unfortunately, my oldest granddaughter won't be there as she's not able to take additional time off work. She will be sorely missed. I expect a week long party. It should be fun, exciting, full of love, family and fun.

BUT... all that said, I've been trying to stick to my 15 minutes a day at least, and it is helping me progress my SWAP. The brown pants are complete and have been worn, and are into the rotation. The striped shirt turned out quite well if I do say so myself. Front and back stripes line up perfectly, which may not be apparent from the picture. The sleeves are cut on the straight grain, so they don't line up that well, but it is what it is. I'm quite pleased with the tee, it fits well, and is flattering.

I am excited about sewing right now, and have moved on to the next top, which is a rayon knit in a batik of browns. I love the fabric and think it will make a nice and more dressy looking top for work.

 I also have my second "muslin" of the Style Arc Franki top cut out and ready to go. The first was made of real muslin, and this is from a wild looking rayon knit I got on sale. It's not my usual style or colors (on line shopping sometimes elicits surprises LOL,) but I think will be fun for summer. The fabric feels wonderful and drapes fantastically. I'm hoping the alterations I made will make for a really nice fitting and flattering cowl neck top. I love the pattern, and I love cowls. Fitting me with them is more difficult! If I can make this one work, I have a luscious chocolate brown knit for it.


After working on the batik top last night, when I was getting a bit tired but not ready to go to sleep, I pulled out a Burda top and started tracing and doing my standard alterations on that one. It's Burda 2898, I'm pretty sure it's currently OOP. But I have loved this pattern since I bought it and never made it up yet. To me it's lovely and will look wonderful for a summer top of a light weight fabric. I bought a beautiful French Cotton Lawn from Marcy Tilton and that will go beautifully with my swap and be perfect for work for summer time.
The muslin for that will be coming up soon.



AND on top of that, I have the Butterick #5616 top also in the "next up" pile. It's undoubtedly out of print too. It is going to be a muslin of denim first, and will be useful for a light weight jacket.  I have a muslin fitted except the sleeves, and hope to trace them off tonight and get a sleeve done to see if it will fit my bodacious biceps. They measurements look okay, but I never know until it's put together and tried on. I'm hopeful that no further alterations  will be necessary on this one. Once the fit is correct, this one will be made in a beigey-tan stretch cotton and will be my bridging piece. And because I love, love, love, red, expect to see it in a red too. That will be my next core collection after the SWAP is completed.

I have several more knit tops to do, and am optimistic that my SWAP may actually get completed this year in the appropriate time frame. AMAZING!

Hope you are all doing well on your sewing and having fun with it!

 

Thought clippings and some progress

I can't believe it's February 4 already. I had a busy January which is usually the only time of the year I get some down time. So who knows what this year will bring.

Last weekend was my birthday weekend, so my hubby and I, my daughter, and two Grands met up in Berkeley for a little fun. We got there early so had time to go to Stone Mountain and Daughter which is my all time favorite fabric store. I got several pieces that called to me, and you'll see many of them over the course of the next few months. Then we had lunch at a Brazilian place, never had Brazilian food before, but we'll be going back. It was yummy. Then over to Laci's textile museum. They are the most fascinating place, and I'd wanted to go for years and never got there before. The exhibit was exquisite hand made laces from as early as the 1600s. We got a history lesson along with the docent led tour. My husband wasn't too thrilled when I first talked to him about it, but loved it as much as we did. They even had one piece made of human hair in the 1500s I think!

My second pair of brown pants are complete except for the waistband hook and eye. They look good, and did require a bit of alterations. I'm not sure why, but my standard pattern draft had got off somewhere along the line. These are a charcoal and bittersweet chocolate pinstripe that I actually cut cross grain because I don't want stripes going around these hips! LOL Pictures will follow.

After taking Don McCunn's pants class multiple years and about 50 pounds ago, I have drafted all of my own pants patterns and at this point don't have any RTW pants in my closet. But I get lazy, and as you make multiple copies, the darts start to fall apart, as does the front markings for the fly. So instead of doing a new draft, I copy, and then recopy, and then change for whatever design feature I want, and so on and so forth. Well, after the brown wool fiasco, I bit the bullet and redrafted the pants pattern once again true to my current measurements, so I should be ready to go.

I'm going to do what I call instant gratification sewing for a week or so, and then back to pants. I have several tees in the works that will go along with my SWAP, and not look like plain tee shirts, but a little dressier and/or interesting. I love, love, love, stripes, but again, at this size, don't want stripes running around my body. I found this wonderful cotton/lycra knit at Stone Mountain and Daughter in Berkeley, and couldn't pass it up. It's the stripes I love, good colors, and fits perfectly in with my SWAP.

I sure hope you guys like my ideaas much as I think I will. That's on the cutting board right now, but it is taking a while as I want the stripes matched perfectly.


As I've been driving, sewing, and my various other tasks, I've been thinking about all things sewing, and thought I'd share. If you know everything, then skip this part.

Pins, scissors, and pointy things. We all know to get our scissors sharpened because they do get dull, even if you're careful to only use them on fabric. A gentleman who used to come around showed me how to tell when you're due. If your fabric is kind of bunching up as you cut, it's time. Along those lines, I just had the most amazing thought pop up a few months ago. I am good about having my scissors sharpened, but was using a seam ripper that was probably 25 years old. They, too, need to be replaced. And what a difference it makes! :P}}

Pins... I have multiple types of pins. For me, ruining a fabric that I purchased and loved because I had a pin not sharp enough that pulled the threads is so frustrating! And it has happened rather frequently with knits before I started replacing all of my pins every 3 to 6 months, depending upon how much I use them. Having a run up the front or back of a beautiful knit fabric because your pin had a burr is nightmarish! I have separate pin cushions, and/or magnetic pin cushions for my various types. I use ball point for knits; round head pins for wovens, sometimes the flower head pins for wovens, as they have long, narrow shafts that work well on thick fabrics, and I have dedicated silk pins for fine fabrics. It just makes my life easier.

Thoughts on pockets... use twill tape along the pocket edge seam line, about 1/4" shorter than the seam, and stretch to fit as you're sewing. It will keep your pants pockets from gapping. Also, I use twill tape along the back crotch line seam. If you've ever had a back seam pop, you'll know much more security with that little piece of twill tape to reinforce your stitching!

When I'm making pants pockets, after stitching the underside to the outside, I pink the seams at different widths. Then press open on a Tailor's Board, and press together over a ham using lots of steam to get it nice and flat. Once you have it flat, do your topstitching, and again, press over the ham, using lots of steam and a clapper. Your pockets will look super professional.

Along those lines, I do use my ham more than any other tool in my sewing room except my machines. Whenever you are pressing a part of a garment that goes over curves, the ham is your best friend. I use it to press darts, pin my pocket bags together, be sure my waistbands are pinned well, and so many other areas where one side is being drawn in to a smaller side. Try it. You may find your garments coming together just a bit nicer!

Well, it's Monday morning, and my week needs to get moving. Hope yours is fantastic!

Mama said there'd be days like this!

Okay, not to complain, HOWEVER, ahem. Some days I feel like I have lost my mind. I now know not to cut out my patterns early in the morning without checking and double checking what I'm doing! Senior moments happen more frequently when I'm not fully awake. :P}}

I spent last week working on my next SWAP garment, a pair of trousers in a nice brown wool from the stash. I was quite careful and did an excellent job if I do say so myself. All the top stitching was good with no wobbles, and the pockets were as close to perfect as I could get. Photo below:

 

So this made my third garment, and it was the end of the third week in January. Good. I'm keeping up and that's wonderful. I may actually get through this with flying colors. Since it was my TNT, self drafted pattern, I never even thought to pull them on until they were completed. Then... WHAT? I can't get them zipped. I know I'm a little bloated, but come on.

 

Panic sets in. What the heck. I run jump on the scale. No, I haven't gained 20 plus pounds in the last week. So what's going on? I am frustrated and confused. I pull out another pair of pants from the same pattern, in a similar wool fabric (from last year's SWAP) and they are fine. Scratching my head, I finally pull out a tape measure.

 

OMG! The proverbial light bulb went off. I was cutting out early in the morning to get them done so I could sew in the evenings. My pattern was drafted without seam allowances, as I can more readily adapt it to other designs. I CUT THESE SLACKS OUT WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES, and then proceeded to sew them together. They may fit if I loose between 20 and 30 pounds. But not now.

 

Lesson Learned! I either have to add seam allowances to each pattern when I draft it, or check, recheck, and recheck again. A whole week's worth of sewing, and a lovely wool pair of slacks, which I need, going in the give away bag.

 

I have the next espresso brown wool for the next pair of slacks and a tweed for a jacket at the cleaners right now. They will be ready for pickup tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm starting on the next pair of slacks. A heavy charcoal/brown very subtle pinstripe in a cotton. I think I may add extra seam allowances this time just in case. LOL

 

Hope you all are having a wonderful time and getting great garments fit to your unique bodies!

 

More later!

 

 

 

 

Onward and upward!

Not a huge week for sewing around here. We have been fighting the bug that's going around. The flu hasn't hit yet Northern California as dramatically as it has the East, but that's not to say it isn't here.

As an Appraiser, I am absolutely flabbergasted that someone who is too sick to go to work would have me come to inspect their house while breathing their germs all over me and expecting me to shake their hand.

I am a firm believer in Zicam and seem to be abusing it somewhat because I don't have the time, or the desire to become ill. If you haven't tried it yet, think about it. For both Dale and I, when we notice a cold or flu coming on, we instantly start taking it. It generally will either prevent or lessen any symptoms almost immediately. I'm not in any way affiliated with the company, but heard about it from a Pharmacist many years ago and have been a die hard fan ever since. That said, I have been Zicamming a lot more than usual, and sleeping a lot more than usual, but didn't go down completely. So I'm happy!

In my spare time, around working, sleeping, and all the rest, I did have a few minutes this week to work on my second SWAP garment. It's my TNT Pamela's Perfect Tee shirt pattern, this time with a round neck and long sleeves. It's in a luscious silk/wool jersey from Mood this time. I love it and will get a ton of use out of it as it's the right weight for Spring and Fall as well as winter with a jacket.

And thanks to Caroline from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic for the hint about the knits. I only wear natural fiber fabrics and it's hard to find sweater knits that are attractive and don't have either poly or acrylic or some other such fiber mixed in. This one is as soft as can be, and I have enough to also make a tank for wearing under jackets in the warmer months. Woo Hoo!

Lying on my cutting table right now is some brown wool from my stash for slacks. Again, my TNT self drafted pants pattern will be used. Now debating on whether they need a separate lining or if I'll make a "pant liner" which to me means a pair of Bemberg rayon slacks with an elastic waist. I think it's a good option as I don't much like to pay dry cleaners, and if the slacks don't have a stain, generally I can get away with just steaming after wearing and airing. BUT, the pant liner can be washed much more frequently. I think it's a win, win.

I'm feeling encouraged that it's the end of the second week in January and I have two SWAP garments already done. I've made so many pants that those are almost second nature, so they will go quickly. I may actually finish a SWAP this year! WOW.

More later!

Tah Dah!

Just a quick moment this morning. Getting ready for work. Here's a picture of the aqua and brown floral. It's a silk/cotton/spandex stretch woven from Gorgeous Fabrics. I love it and it will fit well with my Chocolate Dreams SWAP.

Have the brown silk-wool tee cut out and on the sewing table to start this evening. All threads have been changed and a new needle installed in my sewing machine. Serger has brown thread and is ready to go. The 15 minutes per day seems to be working out rather well.

Yesterday afternoon, another of my goals was started. I hope to spend more time with hubby instead of just working all the time. We need to relax together. So we went to see a movie... first time in I don't know how long. Parental Guidance. Cute movie. Good comedy. Great actors. Lots of giggles!

More later!

Working It!

Today is Saturday here, and I'm trying to keep my blog posts up as well as do my "15 minutes" per day that usually turns into an hour every few days. But it does progress the projects and gets more clothing into my closet. That's the really good part.

I was not as successful at the 15 minutes per day as I'd hoped this first week in January. I started the week behind with the Holiday in the middle, and continued to work pretty long hours all week, usually finishing at 6:30 or 7:00 pm. That means after I fix dinner, and we eat, I'm usually all in. AND I've been getting up at 6:30 am to start work at 7:30 am. Just long days overall.

I don't like the early mornings in the winter much. As a San Diego girl, I love the sunshine, and winter darkness and cold doesn't get my mojo working the way I like.  I also believe I have a bit of the Seasonal Affective Disorder, which means I get down in the dumps when there isn't enough sunshine. Oh, well. I live in Northern California which most people still think is California with sunshine all the time, but in winter, I am cold, and it rains too much for me!

Moving on, I'm working on a tee out of a lovely rayon print, cream, aqua, and browns that should be done later today. I'll post a picture when it's finished. Not much to say because it's my TNT Pamela's perfect tee shirt pattern, this time with 3/4 sleeves so I can wear it most of the year, and I could probably make in my sleep. But the fabric is lovely and it will actually go with my SWAP.

The really good news is I have enough left over to make up the sleeveless shell too. I was looking at the one Sydni made over at Stitcher's Guild from the Burda pattern with the cowl, and I'm pretty sure I can alter my Ala Mode Margarita top that is already fitted to have the same type cowl neckline. I'm loving the look of cowls on almost everyone, and since I can, why not. It will make a nice spring top for under jackets, and a great summer top on its own.

I need to finish up an appraisal this morning, and then hope to finish the rayon top, and get my next project cut out for sewing this weekend. It's a gorgeous silk/wool blend in a dark almost expresso colored chocolate from Mood Fabrics. It's going to be another Pamela's tee with long sleeves this time. I figure even though I'm not officially throwing my hat into the ring, I do want to work on the SWAP and see if I can actually get enough garments finished.

On another note, I bought a new little Embroidery Machine! Saw the article in Threads about the Brother PE 500 Embroidery machine for under $300, and have been wanting to get something inexpensive for monograms. My really old Pfaff (circa early 1980s) did script, but it is failing after all the years of heavy use, and I only use it as a backup machine now. I wanted something that I could actually do large monograms if desired, and also that I could do my own personalized sewing labels. I'll get it set up later today too! I doubt I'll ever do a lot of embroidery because that's just not my style, but having the ability to do beautiful monograms makes my day!

Hope your day is fabulous!

Simplicity 9825, First Garment 2013

Well, as promised, here's my first garment of 2013.

I made a skirt for my granddaughter, fits well, and she liked it very much. Will be a nice addition to her work wardrobe.

 

I'm sorry I didn't get any pictures of it on her, but she refused to pose since she was still in her jammies and hadn't showered, etc.

 

It's a virgin wool from my stash bought in Sicily several years ago. Grey with a fine white pinstripe, and a bemberg rayon lining.  The pattern is quite easy, and sews up nicely. I started at a 12 waist and a 14 hip, and it was just right for her. I eliminated the front and back seams and installed a side invisible zipper.

 

Not much else to say, but I'm hoping my sewing productivity is way up this year. It gives me joy and relaxes me from the stresses of work and tight deadlines.

Hope your year is off to a great start!

 

 

Happy 2013!

Just a quick post this morning. Happy 2013 to everyone!

I hope to let the tides wash away all the unfinished business of 2012 and start 2013 with a great attitude and wishes for all, (including myself!) for happiness, health, prosperity, and the time to enjoy them all.

My goals for 2013 are to find more time to relax. More time to sew. Get out more and work less. Take the time to run energy so I can stay grounded and get my brain out of monkey mode so things will progress faster. I hope to blog more frequently. AND I'd like to complete the 2013 SWAP whether or not I officially throw my hat into the ring.

I hope you have a wonderful New Year's Day and a phenomenal 2013!

PS... I'm already sewing for 2013. I have a skirt on the table now that I hope to have pictures to show you later today. Not for me, but for my wonderful, accomplished, granddaughter for her new Corporate position.

Thinking SWAP 2013

I don't know if I'll actually throw my hat into the ring over at Stitcher's Guild, as I believe we're going to have a VERY busy first quarter in 2013. We are hoping to get approved to buy a new to us house, which will of course involve a move; my sister and brother-in-law are having a 50th anniversary which will involve a very large, wild group of family in the San Diego area for several days; and of course I still work full time on top of everything else.

BUT I really feel like I accomplished a lot of coordinated sewing after planning last year's SWAP even though I didn't come near finishing in the allotted time frame. I did finish most of the garments, and wound up with some nice wardrobe basics. As a result, today I spent most of the day coming up with my 2013 SWAP, Chocolate Dreams. Could be coffee too, but Chocolate is really my fav, so that's what it is.

It will fit my lifestyle perfectly with slacks and tops for work and the bridge piece is a "jean jacket."

The pants are my self draft as they're the only ones that fit me, and are so much easier than trying to reinvent the wheel. The knit tops will be Pamela's Perfect Tee shirt for the same reason. The woven blouses are both from a new to me Butterick pattern, #5616. One will have a 3/4 sleeve, probably without the band at the end of the sleeve, and one with a cap sleeve for spring and summer. They will both be able to be worn over another shirt if desired. The jacket is my first foray into Stylearc patterns, but everyone who uses them seems to love them, so there you go. I'm hoping I'll feel the same way.

My fabrics are pretty simple and should be super versatile. I have medium brown and bittersweet chocolate wool for the winter pants with a silk/wool jersey, a mesh knit, and a cotton print top to go with those. The spring to summer grouping will have taupe cotton twill and espresso brown subtly striped twill pants, a natural tan color rayon/linen jersey, a dark chocolate rayon jersey, and a cotton stretch woven print for tops. The jean jacket bridge piece is a taupe-brown stretch denim. Everything looks like it will work well together, at least on paper!

There are myriad other garments I'd like to add to this, not the least of which is a wool tweed jacket for now, but it won't work as a bridge piece. It may get made first just the same. And of course, it's kind of boring with just brown and cream, so along the way there may be pops of color that jump in. We'll have to see how it goes.

I'll be doing my year end goals in lieu of resolutions in a few days, and then it will be a New Year. I'm hoping to do more sewing, more blogging, and in general have more fun.

Hope your year end is going well!

October was a little slow in sewing world

Well, a quick recap on September. Not much happening in the sewing world. I moved ahead and finished a pair of charcoal pants and a pair of black pants. Set the one quilt aside to work on another time when I'm more into quilting.
Work has been super busy which is good. We're working on getting approval to buy a new house. Not the easiest thing when you're both self employed in industries that have been decimated by the housing bust. Plus at 65, we just can't work as hard as we used to.
We're kind of looking in a nearby community for a "retirement home." That to me means hopefully within walking distance of services, hopefully very affordable, with a space for a garden and fruit trees, hopefully with at least peeks at the water, and with a nice room that can become my sewing studio. For Dale, it means hopefully peeks at the water, room for his boat to be at home and off the street, (which I would like to be behind the fence!) a nice big garage, and hopefully an art room so he can create also.
My brain is bubbling with lots of ideas of things I want to create. If I had the time, I expect I would be producing quite a lot of garments, new and old designs, in fabulous fabrics. As it is, I think about them, dream about them, and get a few items actually sewn.
So, now it's to work, and I'll try to be better about posting now that November is almost half over! :P}}

Thoughts on the Autumn of my Life & Fitting Older Bodies

I just want to say first, that September was kind of a wasted month in my sewing life. I worked on quilt pieces, which are going to take a long time to complete, and I fiddled with the pearl gray jacket for way too many hours hoping I could figure out a way to fit it correctly. AND, I remade the pearl gray trousers. I was reminded of why I don't do alterations and mending. Although the pants are wearable, I don't really like them any more, and the jacket, which probably had 150 hours in it, finally got tossed into the garbage.

The consensus is that I HAVE to buckle down and complete Don McCunn's drafting classes sooner rather than later. I need to draft a torso block for me, my husband, and my daughter with personally fit sleeves. Once I have a block that fits, I am hoping I won't have the odd problems here and there with diagonal lines and folds that I can't figure out but know relate to fit. Don's retiring the end of 2013, and although I figured I had forever to complete these and there was no rush, there is now a sense of urgency. I need someone with Don's experience to help me "read" the lines in our clothing to enable a perfect fit on less than perfectly proportioned bodies. :P}}

The really good news is that the wedding got called off, so I will hopefully have a long time before the quilt needs to be completed. I think it (the marriage) was never a really good idea, but a chance for an 18 year old to be on her own and away from her parent's rules. Unfortunately, switching from conservative parents to a demanding and inconsiderate, overbearing man that thinks he can command you to do whatever he wants, isn't any better, and is actually worse than conservative parents! Getting married to run away from something isn't ever a good choice IMO.

To the end of perfect fit clothing for us, I also purchased a new book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen. I received it yesterday and started reading in my lunch hour. I will be reading this through cover to cover I believe. She starts with basics and moves easily through what from first glance appears to be the very basics into complex adaptations of OTC patterns to help everyone achieve perfection in their garments. None of us have the standard "dress form" shape, so I believe between Don's class and this book, we should come out in fantastic shape.

As I have been contemplating fit and bodies and all of the appurtenant issues over the few months, I have come up with some interesting conclusions about my body and aging, and my life.

As a young to middle aged person, I took for granted that I was active, healthy, and could do anything and everything I wanted with minimal effort. I have always had a touch of OCD, and dove right in trying to be the best at whatever I was doing, with little regard for whether or not it was good for me, or healthy, or anything else.

As I've aged, wierd and mysterious (to me) things have happened that I never would have believed COULD happen to me. I've shrunk by about an inch. Due to multiple events and health problems, I am almost 80 pounds heavier than I have ever been in my life, and for various reasons can't seem to elminiate that excess.

Things have fallen from where they originally were placed, and I have bumps and bulges I wouldn't have thought possible. I have learned, that for me, "good enough" is not good enough! I want perfection, and although I've always strived for that in my life, I didn't know enough to know that perfect fit in clothing was achievable with enough knowledge, time and effort.

I just took out three paragraphs of what was TMI and not interesting to others, but a good introspection for me.

It is time to quit resting on my laurels and get moving towards my goals. I want to be healthy and active again, and have perfectly fitting garments that always make me look elegant and well put together. I will survive, and thrive!

More soon I hope!

August Recap

Well, it looks like I'm doing a month's blogging all at once. Work has been busy, thank goodness. Sewing gets done when I'm not too exhausted to remember "right sides together."

I did get the little pencil skirt done for my granddaughter. Drafted her a pattern, added a kick pleat, and typed up very involved instructions so someone with no sewing experience can recreate a skirt from the pattern. That one also has a fly front, so those instructions were very detailed, and she has some good information there. She did mention that she thought it was a tiny bit too big. But hasn't sent any pictures, so I don't know if she's talking a half inch or two inches. Just going to wait until I hear from her. Here's a picture of the skirt on the hangar.

Kick pleat showing

 

Front

 

Once I had Kristi's skirt completed and in the mail, I continued to work on the Margarita top. I kept at it trying to get the fit exactly right for my body, including changing the shoulders and neck edge until it was something that I felt good about. To this point, I have three totally wearable tops that work well with or without a jacket. No bra straps show with these versions. Plus a few others that get worn for pajama tops at this time of year. The ones for "real" include a navy cotton overlock knit from Hancock's fabrics; an Ecru LaCoste mesh knit from Denver Fabrics, and another from a grey, red, and cream knit from Emma One Sock. Navy, beige, and gray are my core colors, so all will be immanently wearable, and get lots of use.

 

 

 

I also made a blouse from my Favorite Hot Patterns Plain and Simple shirt. I used a Bali handpainted Batik from Emma One Sock for that. It's already my new favorite top.

 

 

 

 

So on the table right now is a half completed pearl gray jacket that will match the pants previously shown. I also have 3 pair of pants cut out and ready to go ~ charcoal grey, black, and tan. I figure if they're ready to go they have a much better chance of being queued up and getting sewn quickly. Then I have the granddaughter's quilt partially cut out. I'll be starting sewing the strips together when I'm too tired to make sense of anything else. :P}} They can bet done while mindlessly watching television. I'm itching to get to the reds though. In my head I have a red jacket waiting to be made also! We'll see how quickly that comes together! LOL I think I'll use my TNT base jacket pattern, and do a Mandarin collar, then slant down to the bust level like it were a collarless jacket. In my head, it's going to work really well! LOL

 

I have a Butterick top partially adapted and ready for a muslin too. Oh, for the days when I could just cut a pattern out and it fit good enough that no one knew it wasn't perfect but me! Reading other's blogs, I most identify with SD Bev. I have narrow, sloping shoulders. Need a FBFBA. That's full bust, full belly adjustment. I need a sway back adjustment. I have what Carolyn calls Bodacious biceps, so those have to be adjusted. And then I'm short waisted, so things need to be adjusted in length too! I just need several more hours every day and I could be so productive!

 

Well, off to my day.  It's always a tightrope walk to balance my days and evenings with everything involved in being self employed, work, food prep, grocery shopping, and time for sewing. Still trying to eliminate some of the pounds brought on by my body's reaction to gluten and stress. I figure that's going to take a long while at the rate I'm going, but I am moving in the right direction, albeit VERY SLOWLY! Hope your August very productive.

 

More later!