Thursday, September 20, 2018

Jalie Rose...The first of many!


A Jalie Rose!

I’m enamored of this pattern for sure. I have been looking for a pattern for a woven, sleeveless shirt with a collar and collar stand for quite a long time. Finding a pattern that works with my curves is difficult to say the least. Jalie won the gold cup! The pattern went together well, and it may be the nicest shirt collar I've seen in a long time! 

I put together a quick muslin and determined that other than adding a 1” strip through the back yoke to make up for my gravity affected shoulder posture. I did also shorten it by 3” as I’m only 5’2” tall, and their fit is designed for 5’6”. I may add back another inch, but not sure of that. I didn’t need any other alterations! What a thrill.

For my first of hopefully many to come, I used a luscious cotton lawn from the stash. Depending on your color sense, it’s in a creamy white and either turquoise,  aqua, light teal, or mint green, but I love it and it will go well in my wardrobe with multiple items. I took my time, and made sure it all went together well, even doing hand basting to be sure I had things right. It'd been a long time since I did a woven shirt collar. 

I’m not sure where the fabric came from or when, but perhaps in 2013 when I was putting together the fabrics for the teal collection, perhaps not. I had purchased 2.75 yards, and it’s 58” wide, so I have a nice remnant for who knows what.

For the collar and under-collar, I used a fusible tricot from Fashion Sewing Supply, and the buttons were in a bag of various shirt buttons from the stash, possibly also purchased from Fashion Sewing Supply. They are awesome!

Without further ado...


Completed 09-19-2018.

This morning I cut out the A-Line skirt from the teal blue denim remnant that I used for the pants back in February. This will work with some of my core items for tax season along with many items for the Spring and Summer. 

I hope to have more to show later in the week!

Happy sewing!



Sunday, September 9, 2018

Definitely moving into Autumn around here

Happy week! I finished both swimsuits and they're going to fit in nicely with my exercise classes. As I said in last week's missive, the Berry fabric was from Fashion Fabrics Club (online) and the elastics and linings are from Sew Sassy. The bust cups haven't arrived yet, but are anticipated tomorrow. I'm pleased with both, and overall they fit well.

From old stash fabric, and Jalie 3350 Swimsuit pattern

From Fashion Fabrics Club fabric and Jalie 3350 Pattern

I finished my sloper and am quite pleased with it. I don't know that I've ever had one that fits quite this well, so that's huge in my book. I've already got it lined up to check fit on my Jalie Rose that was taped together and traced off last night. I'm hoping to get it cut out and started this afternoon. 

I did get the job I interviewed for, so I spent a good bit of time this week using some tools from Nancy Nix-Rice and the Vivienne Files to do wardrobe planning. I haven't worked in an office with multiple other people for many years, so I do want to look smart while fitting in, but remain true to my aesthetic and still be comfortable. In this area, everything is "business casual" so I went through the closet, looking at what I have, and what I need to fit in. A few items will need to be altered, and a few items are on the "to make" list, but overall I'm in good shape. I ONLY purchased about 5 yards of a rayon print from Fashion Fabrics Club, (on sale!) in an ocean/teal and the rest is already owned, and a lot is already made and ready to go. I used Vivienne's latest four by five grid to put together a "wardrobe plan." Without further ado...

Column 1 or Cluster 1 includes a royal blue linen unlined jacket, which is currently being altered to get the shoulders correct. A navy short sleeved tee; a navy long sleeved tee to be made; I actually have 3 pair of navy slacks; and a navy denim skirt. 

Column 2 or Cluster 2 has a teal blue (both items the same fabric) cardigan and short sleeved tee, previously blogged; a cream and teal paisley tee and teal and camel floral tee, both previously blogged, and a teal blue denim skirt, color IRL closer to the top photo. 

Cluster 3 Aztec print sweater from 2015 with red; teal; grey and black print; red short sleeved tee; a cream/red/black and grey linen blouse that will be made soon; and tropical wool slacks in both charcoal and light grey. 

Cluster 4 A RTW teal and royal blue heavy knee length sweater; the ocean/teal rayon shirt and skirt to be made; a RTW red cardigan gift from Hubby; and a pair of black wool and/or linen slacks to be made. 

There are other jackets that will work with the plan also and once this is put together, I'll probably start a new cluster with browns, tans, and the like. 

I'm pushing the pedal to the medal as I start tax classes the 24th of this month, which will take up 3 mornings a week with at least 9 hours a week of homework along with my Aqua Aerobics classes. Those will run until November 9, and then I have about 3 days of tax updates for the new laws put in place for 2018 returns. After that, I'll have some downtime until January 2, when I go into real work mode. 

I'm excited about the job, about the wardrobe, and also about having some extra income. I'm eyeballing a Baby Lock cover stitch machine for my "reward" for all my hard work. So in my book, it's a win-win-win!

I hope your autumn plans are working out well also! More later! 








Monday, September 3, 2018

Happy Holiday! And this week's projects

For all my friends in the US, it's Labor Day. Hope your day is lovely and you have time for food, family, and whatever makes your heart full. For those not in the US, Labor Day is a public holiday designed to honor the American labor movement and the contributions made by workers to the strength, prosperity, laws and well-being of the country. (Wikipedia)

As a child, in my hometown, it was always the day before the first day of school, so we attempted to grab every last bit of summer we could. As an adult, it was always a three day weekend that allowed one tiny last minute weekend getaway or celebration before we headed into the fall season with no breaks until Thanksgiving. At the current time, I think most schools around here start in around mid-August, this year the 13th, so those kids are enjoying a three day weekend.

In my family on Labor Day, my dad would barbecue, we'd have potato salad, macaroni salad, fresh watermelon and sliced tomatoes from our neighbor's garden, and sometimes, if we were lucky, some home churned ice cream. Today I have a rack of baby back ribs that will go into the crock-pot while I spend the day sewing. Sides will be a bit more healthy and less caloric.

I finally have my moulage set and ready to move on into making it into a sloper, so that's on the list for this week. After the first 1 1/2" sway back adjustment, I had to do an additional 5/8" tuck on both the upper and lower back at the waist seam tapering to nothing at the side seam. Now it looks just about perfect.

I'll be moving on with getting some things made with my sloper to check fit as soon as I've got that together. I do still have to take the sleeve class and get a sleeve that fits into my bodice and still works with my bodacious biceps! But first I'll be making up the Jalie Rose into a sleeveless shirt. Around this area, it can work on it's own, and then under a lightweight jacket or cardigan for at least a couple of months yet.

I'm also finishing up two swimsuits that I started earlier in the week. One from a very old Rose Marie Reed stash fabric, blues, aquas, light purple, and similar colors, possibly purchased in the 90's when Stretch and Sew would bring their fabrics to town once every few months and another in a relative new fabric from FashionFabricsClub.com purchased in March in purple, turquoise, and berry. I hope to have them done today. Still need to put the darker one together, and sew the elastic around the armholes/back and legs to the lighter one. I've used the new Jalie 3350 pattern for these, and I think they will be great for my Aqua Aerobics. 

For both of these, I've used the front from View A and the back from View B. I did enlarge the straps as the directions call for 3/8" elastic with the fabric wrapper over it, and for a larger woman, a 3/4" elastic works much better, especially in a class where we're jumping and running, and really moving around a lot. While I won't be strutting my stuff in public at the current time, they're going to work perfectly for the intended use. I've been trying to work out a custom bust cup that will fit my body, and think I may have an idea that will work. These have a double cup ling so you can install "removable cups." I did buy a couple of pair of molded Wacoal cups yesterday that should be here this week. We'll see if I'm going to need to use them in the future or if my idea works well.

Although I've purchased several Jalie patterns over the years, I hadn't actually sewn any up until now. I have a friend who had purchased one of their patterns and was quite pleased. It was her first PDF, and having the ability to only print the size you want, was an eyeopener. It made an awful lot of sense to do that! I'll be using more of them in the future for sure! 

Since August is done, I'm checking in on my Sewing to do list for the last three months. I did amazingly well IMO. I have the Suzy Furrer bodice class almost completed, with the bodice fitting now. Hooray! The next few lessons are how to convert the moulage into your sloper, and truing it up, transferring to tag board, and some design options. I will have to carefully follow the instruction to change the moulage into the sloper, but the rest I have done in pattern classes before, so nothing earth shattering for me. I got the two pair of shorts completed, finished the first quilt and made another for the new grandson. Made some receiving blankets, and a baby shirt, and am working on swimsuits. No lingerie got started this month, but that's on the horizon I believe. I figured the swimsuits were more urgent as the ones I've been wearing the last year and a half are getting pretty sad and worn looking. 

September-October-November goals will be to complete the sloper on tag, make the Jalie Rose, perhaps get the McCalls 7575 shirt muslined and fitted, along with a couple of pair of long pants for winter. 

I also made a decision that in order to avoid any dementia or Alzheimer's I need to exercise my brain more, and along those lines decided to sign up to complete taxes for next year, which includes taking a 60 hour tax class. I signed up, took their assessment test, and passed, so have an interview tomorrow for the job. Because I passed both their initial assessment tests, I'll be starting as a tax specialist versus the initial tax assistant. It's a step up on the ladder, and comes with a slight edge. 

The tax class starts the 24th of this month, and will be three mornings a week until mid November. There will definitely be homework also, so that along with my Aqua Aerobics classes and whatever sewing I can squeeze in should keep me busy over the next few months. I'm looking forward to it! AND, if I decide it makes sense I'll use some of my earnings for a stand alone cover stitch machine. We'll see. I believer there is a dealer here in town that sells the Babylock, and if so, I'll be checking them out. 

So that's my week in review. I'd better get busy on my next week. Wishing you all a sew special week!