Slight revisions required

I put together the muslin without facings, and have made a few more adjustments to the final pattern. Initial muslin shown, with sleeve hems basted, but no hem in the bottom. I have adjusted the pattern to reflect the changes I see are needed in the muslin for my final jacket pattern. I'm hoping to get a TNT jacket pattern out of this by the time I am done!

Currently, I am proceeding with drafting the two piece sleeve from the original draft, as IMO, that's the way jacket sleeves are supposed to be made.

Prior to adjustment:

Not sure why the hubby doesn't tell me to straighten out the jacket when he's taking pictures, but there it is. No head as I had just gotten out of the shower. :-)

This is Burda 6569, view A

Adjustments made initially and altered a bit more after the first muslin: Largest pattern size 20, and according to their measurement chart, I needed a 22 or larger.

Front:
Added 1/2" to front side seams, armscye to hem
Reduced dart by a total  of 2" (a bit more after this muslin)
Dropped dart point by 1 1/2"
reduced shoulder width 5/8"
After initial muslin:
raised shoulder point 1/2" for shoulder pads to zero at neck edge
dropped underarm seam by 1/2" to reduce excess sleeve ease

Back:
Narrowed back at neckline and dropped center back by 1 1/2" to zero at neckline
Reduced shoulder width to match front and dropped it by 7/8"
dropped underarm seam by 1/2" to match front
Raised shoulder point 1/2" for shoulder pads to 0 at neckline
added 1" to entire side seam
added 1/4" to center of armscye blending to shoulder and underarm
dropped back dart point 1/2"

I made several sleeve drafts from several different sources, with the best fitting choice (after more tweaking) being a print out of an adaptation of an original article in Threads Magazine. The reprint was adapted from "Add A Sleeve to Your Bodice" in the June/July 2007 issue of threads by Kathleen Cheethan (Threads #131); and the adaptation is available here: https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/08/19/create-a-custom-sleeve-pattern

I have also figured out FINALLY after sewing for myself for the last half century, that my right shoulder point is farther forward than my left shoulder point and I need to mark and sew the sleeve cap at different places on each side of my body to match up correctly and fit correctly into the bodice. There is about a 3/8" difference which will be used on the jacket.

The next steps will be doing the two piece sleeve, and starting work on the jacket. I have an old booklet copyright 1982, that I will be following to tailor my jacket.

It looks like there are reprints and some are available on Amazon. I'm looking forward to the process and having this jacket in rotation in my professional wardrobe.

More later,