Sunday, September 8, 2019

Pleased at last.

This weekend has been my pattern drafting weekend. I really wanted to move forward with things and have a chance at a TNT jacket pattern that fits my very atypical body.

My favorite pattern drafting book, (probably because it was my first foray into the idea that plain old folks like me could actually draft a pattern to specific measurements and make it fit,) is the 2nd Edition of  Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong, shown here:


Publication date is 1995, so it's been awhile that I've been using this book. I also have the fourth edition from a more advanced class, but this is always the one I seem to reach for and have the most luck finding what I want. 

As I started to turn my one piece sleeve into a two piece sleeve, I realized that the instructions I'm using require a darted sleeve, which my sleeve that fit me, was not. So back to the drawing board.

I was quite pleased to realize after making the darted draft using the instructions, the sleeve was almost identical to the one I made from the Threads article. That was a relief and made me feel much better about what I'm doing. If two different approaches yield the same result, it's gratifying.

I'm hoping to start on my jacket tomorrow. My lining fabric finally arrived, and one of the two I ordered will be a great match. Somewhere along the line, AHEM, a brown wool flannel and a navy wool gabardine arrived that are both excellent matches to this jacket. I am sewing from my stash also, but every once in a while, the fabric bug bites and cannot be ignored! :-)

I do need to copy off the lining pieces and get them put together also, but I think that's going to be done in and around doing the outer shell. The tailoring booklet pretty much interfaces everything, and with this silk suiting, I'm going to use a weft fusible as I think that's going to work best.

So, onward and upward! More later.


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