Saturday, September 14, 2019

Moving forward slowly and carefully

I am moving forward with my jacket and trying very hard to be slow and careful so it looks great once it's finished.

I am drafting the additional pieces needed as I go along, and it seems to be working pretty well. I have my lining pieces drafted and I initially cut separate interfacing pieces as the book tells you to cut off the seam allowances and I figured it would be easier before cutting.

Because this jacket doesn't have lapels, it's going much faster than it would otherwise, and because the fabric does have a tendency to ravel, I was pretty sure there weren't any welt pockets coming up. I'm using the patch pockets that are indicated on View A, so that's easier.

Not sure why, but my interfacing (perhaps too old?) is not fusing well so for the fronts, after carefully fusing everything, I went ahead and hand stitched the interfacing. For the balance, I'll sew it into the seams and then trim carefully along the seam lines.




After doing that, the front darts were sewn, and then I drafted a back stay. (Which will be refined for the next one. Although my Speed Tailoring book doesn't call for one, I remember an old sewing instructor who did alterations for many years insisting that all lined jackets need a back stay to keep the back looking nice and for stability. I didn't do it exactly correct, as after putting it in, I realized it is supposed to go to the bottom of the armscye. I'm only about half way. That will be remedied in the next jacket.


Hmmm...looking at the photograph, I may need to redo anyway as it has that fold right under the neckline.  I'll have to go check that out before moving on. It may be the way it's lying on the ironing board as I didn't notice it before this minute.

Next, I'll be sewing side seams and shoulder seams together. More late.


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