Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Getting closer.

Muslin #2. I think I have the front good, but don't understand the back floppiness. I will send off pictures to Glenda and see if she can give me suggestions. As I look at it, I AM seeing some forward shoulders, and a sway back, and perhaps the beginning of a dowager's hump. Dang, getting old sure messes with things! Looks like I need a little extra length in the front too.

Comments if you like. I don't mind at all when people tell me where they think my fitting has gone wrong. All help appreciated!

 From the side, the bust dart looks relatively correct, the front slope from neck to bust looks good, and other than the short front, I think that's okay. The sleeves are fitting much better and now are comfortable.

 I still see a lot wrong in this picture. Too much weirdness from the mid back down and under the arms. Don't know if I need to extend the darts up, but I think I need to cut in the back armscye a bit. Looks like I could shorten the back a bit too.

Overall I'm pretty pleased with this other than the front length. Excuse the whale belly sticking out. I think with a length extension, this would be okay for a woven blouse.

Next iteration coming up soon!
 


7 comments:

  1. I commend you for sticking to this. It's hard to do that many muslins and keep a sense of humor. It's looking really good in the front with maybe a little bit needed to come off the area in front of the armscye. I have NO idea about the back ;-)

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  2. Persevere, is all I can say! I have seen a few other bloggers go through this same process, tweaking all those little wrinkles out, and they go on to being able to make great fitting garments.
    The only thing I can pick, and I could be 99% wrong on this, is that the back does appear to be too broad for you! But as how to fix this...out of my depth now...fingers crossed for Glenda's input - would you mind posting what she tells you ...J

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  3. Thanks for the input ladies! I'll continue to update as things go along. Glenda gave a some suggestions, and I will be working on muslin number 3 on the 4th as I have a day off if I can get caught up by then. Hopefully!
    In reality, I'm so tired of trying to alter commercial patterns and still winding up with wadders, I'll keep going on this until I get it right, even if it takes 10 muslins!
    From what Glenda could see from the photos, she thinks the shoulder may need to be moved, (but I don't think so... I think she's seeing a line in the gingham and not the seam, but I'll check that out) The wedge I took out of the back neck needs to be put back; Maybe need a CB seam to be able to alter there easier; lengthen at the CF, angle to side seam; and shorten the back. She thinks the folds in the back is due to it being too long and being pushed up, but need to get the rest corrected and then re-evaluate.
    So that's this week's saga so far.
    Again, thanks!

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    1. In the first photo I can see the 'shoulder seam' that Glenda is referring to - and it does look as if it is more towards the back than the front. I often pop a CB seam into my tops to help with the fit, or else I have been experimenting with doing a rounded shoulder adjustment, then removing the same amount on the front (shallow chest effect). How much easier would it be if Glenda could just pop-in for a few minutes and pin away? Keep at it, because from what I have seen others do, all of a sudden it 'just fits'. Then you will be making brilliant dresses with it...J

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  4. I'm a recent follower of your blog so this is my first comment. There are a few things I noticed, not that I'm an expert as I still haven't finished a properly fitted muslin yet using SFD. I've spent more time quilting rather than getting back to fitting clothes. Anyway, I have the book The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen. There is a picture of your same issues on page 87. 'The folds indicate the back of the garment is too wide and the back armhole needs to be clipped.' That is a direct quote from the book not my expert advice. It also suggests fitting the bodice without sewing in the sleeves first. I also agree with Glenda, I think the shoulder needs to be moved more towards the front. The other thing I noticed are the wrinkles that originate at the shoulder and go towards the neck. Also the front sleeve seam appears to be too far into the arm rather than closer to the high bust area.
    I have difficulty fitting clothes with very narrow front rolled shoulders, larger bust, and now a slightly thickening middle. I talk to the pattern when it says measure the waist, and I say, what waist I can't hardly locate it anymore.
    I look forward to your next post. You've motivated me to get back to fitting my muslin again.
    Have a great Fourth.

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  5. Hi Virginia.
    Thanks for the comments! I do know it's going to be a process. Starting the third muslin today. After I looked at the photos this morning, I did see the shoulder seam. So that's been changed. The back length has been altered. After putting the muslin on with regular fitting pants, I think the front length is actually okay.
    As to fitting without the sleeves. I've taken a couple of flat pattern classes, and that's what they always did. Then when the sleeve was added, it made everything else go wonky. Never were able to get the bodices to fit correctly once the sleeves were added. It may be a personal fitting challenge?!?

    So that's why the fitting with the sleeves. I MAY not get it to be absolutely perfect because my biceps are HUGE and in order to fit the sleeve into the armscye, the front and rear have to be extended at the underarm seam. I do have the same book and will take a gander at page 87.

    I'm thinking the front neck folds will be okay with the new adjusted shoulder. We'll be looking at the curve of both the front and back armscye once the other issues are solved. :P}}

    So the new front is cut out. Off to cut out the back. Did add a seam at the center back to enable more tweaking there. I'll be adding the sleeves also to see what happens.

    Hope you all have a lovely 4th!

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  6. Hi Lynda,
    I looked at the book more last night and another 'wrinkle' it mentioned was the back is too long and too wide. I really like this book too help identify my wrinkles and drag lines, just wish it could get rid of my real wrinkles. I'm assuming you have the Fit for Real People book. They show on page 169, 171 what adjustments to make for large biceps. I only have books, blogs, and youtube to help with my fitting issues. I wish I lived in an area that offered fitting/sewing/pattern making classes.
    I've enjoyed the 4th so far. Worked on building a chicken coop til it got too hot, showered again, made brownies, and now I'm taking a break from machine quilting a queen size quilt on my regular sewing machine.
    Enjoy your day.
    Here's to your fitting success.

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I'm sorry but all of a sudden I cannot reply to your comments. Please know I read them and cherish each comment. Thank you.