Friday, July 20, 2018

Bodice Underway!

As part of my June-July-August sewing to do list, my #1 desire was to complete the Suzy Furrer Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper.

I REALLY want to have a current made-to-measure sloper (or toile for my international friends,) drafted to my measurements. Not a tweaked "one size fits all" but a made-to-measure that actually fits my shoulders and shoulder slope, my bust line, my back, my armholes, arms, and all the rest.

Well, I'm very pleased to report it's underway. This week all week, my sewing time has been devoted to watching the lessons on Craftsy, following through with each lesson, and as of today, I have completed Lesson 6, and am starting on Lesson 7.

The first six lessons include how to measure, and the drafting of the moulage, plus cutting the completed draft into a "princess seamed" garment, cutting it out, and sewing it together. I have the first draft of the front and back completed, and at this point in time, it is cut out and ready to be sewn out of muslin for the first fitting. As my body is so very far off the "typical" fitting model, I expect there will be more than one draft before I've gotten the moulage completed.

Here are the fronts and backs (back slightly visible behind the front) as per the original draft. There are a lot of steps in each draft, with the front having something like 52 measured points with lines all over the page. You start with a Capital A, and go through the alphabet with capital letters, then lower case letters at each point, and end up either at lower case y or z. Towards the end, it gets kind of confusing. At the end, you cut it apart, and as you can see from the photo, I used a heavy duty Sharpie to mark the lines to cut so I wouldn't be confused. There is also some waist shaping, not marked on this draft that gets cut apart so you have two upper bodice and two lower bodice pieces for the front and for the back.


It's taken me most of the week in my spare moments here and there to get this far. Today I'll be cutting out the muslin for this first draft and putting it together for the first fitting. 

More later!



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