I am working on my "wearable muslin" for my Stacie Jean Jacket. I read somewhere, either on some one's blog or on Stitcher's Guild that a sewist didn't understand the need for a wearable muslin. I'm happy for her, but she's either a much more accomplished seamstress than I am, has a more conforming body shape, or just isn't as picky as I am. I seem to always find things AFTER completion of my garment that I would have liked to change. That doesn't mean I won't wear the wearable muslin, it just means it isn't my final pattern or garment.
If you've been following along, you've seen my initial muslin of the Stacie to check shoulder width, and circumference. I used a compilation of my SFD sleeve and the Style Arc sleeve so I wouldn't have to deal with circumference on the arm issues. However, as I am aging and sitting way too much at a computer, I am noticing that my shoulders are moving to a forward position much more rapidly than I would prefer.
Several years ago in a sewing class, I was told to move the shoulder point back in the armscye by 1/4" to get it to fit correctly. Today's is 3/4" and I'm not positive that is exactly enough, but it sure makes a huge difference! I do try to exercise that area but I'm afraid gravity and age are making more of an impact than anything else. Because I've been noticing a tightness at the back of my sleeves with a little too much fullness at the front, that is one area I have been very concerned about getting right.
So now you get a sneak peak at my progress. If you're looking askance at some of the things like the collar, it's not done yet. Early in the process I realized my wool herringbone was going to be itchy on my tender skin, so am doing a full lining. To that end, the collar is attached to the outer fabric, but the inner collar will be attached to the lining and stab stitched to the actual jacket along the seam line. This photo shoot was to check the placement of the sleeves in the armscye and I think I got it pretty well set for my body.
Enjoy my progress. I hope to have finished pictures of this in a few days!
|Looks a bit odd before sleeves are added! The blue is my "padding" on my dress form. |