Sunday, January 5, 2014

5 Days Into 2014 and I'm moving forward with my SWAP - sort of!

I am trying to post more frequently, but sometimes sewing or reading other people's blogs and Stitcher's Guild takes over, I get involved and run out of time to keep myself updated. I find everyone else much more entertaining than me! LOL

I am working on my "wearable muslin" for my Stacie Jean Jacket. I read somewhere, either on some one's blog or on Stitcher's Guild that a sewist didn't understand the need for a wearable muslin. I'm happy for her, but she's either a much more accomplished seamstress than I am, has a more conforming body shape, or just isn't as picky as I am. I seem to always find things AFTER completion of my garment that I would have liked to change. That doesn't mean I won't wear the wearable muslin, it just means it isn't my final pattern or garment.

If you've been following along, you've seen my initial muslin of the Stacie to check shoulder width, and circumference. I used a compilation of my SFD sleeve and the Style Arc sleeve so I wouldn't have to deal with circumference on the arm issues. However, as I am aging and sitting way too much at a computer, I am noticing that my shoulders are moving to a forward position much more rapidly than I would prefer.

Several years ago in a sewing class, I was told to move the shoulder point back in the armscye by 1/4" to get it to fit correctly. Today's is 3/4" and I'm not positive that is exactly enough, but it sure makes a huge difference!  I do try to exercise that area but I'm afraid gravity and age are making more of an impact than anything else. Because I've been noticing a tightness at the back of my sleeves with a little too much fullness at the front, that is one area I have been very concerned about getting right.

So now you get a sneak peak at my progress. If you're looking askance at some of the things like the collar, it's not done yet. Early in the process I realized my wool herringbone was going to be itchy on my tender skin, so am doing a full lining. To that end, the collar is attached to the outer fabric, but the inner collar will be attached to the lining and stab stitched to the actual jacket along the seam line. This photo shoot was to check the placement of the sleeves in the armscye and I think I got it pretty well set for my body.

Enjoy my progress. I hope to have finished pictures of this in a few days!

Pocket flaps

Looks a bit odd before sleeves are added! The blue is my "padding" on my dress form.
 

 



I think the sleeves are in the right spot! Not clipped or pressed yet though!

This will be a good addition to my Winter 6-Pac and I think in the teal silk that this wearable muslin precedes will be great for my SWAP! I can see this jacket becoming a TNT.
 
Have a good Sunday, and as always, there will be more later!

 

6 comments:

  1. Your progress is looking good. The fit of the sleeve looks spot on to me.

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  2. From your shoulder sleeve photo it looks like the center of your sleeve cap is 2 stripes away from the shoulder seam and could be rotated forward. Is this just the way the pattern is with a forward shoulder seam? Stripes really make the eye even things up. Love the progress and the flaps!

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  3. When you did the alteration to the shoulder seam (3/4" to the back) did you move your center dot on the sleeve that much to the back also? I have to move mine to the front though what I have read, that is a rarity. One thing to look at when I do muslins for TNT patterns.

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  4. Mrs. Mole. I have a terrible time with sleeves as I have rounded, forward, narrow shoulders and really big biceps. I was told years ago to move the sleeve cap notch back 1/4" to balance the forward shoulder and have the sleeve hang straight. Now it's 3/4" or more just to get it right, but due to that I'm finding that I have a weird fold at the bicep to the elbow area. I'm probably going to have to draft a sleeve from scratch or find someone to drape one on me. Interested? Aren't you in the bay area?

    Ann...That's the alteration. Move the dot at the top of the sleeve to compensate for the forward shoulders. You moving yours front must be due to very erect posture or square shoulders?

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    1. If you make a sleeve in 1/4 gingham and take photos, I can help you online like I help others with muslins long distance. I'm further north than you. If you send me a private email to surroundedbywhite@gmail. we can work together. I have a rounded back, narrow sloping shoulders and chubbier biceps...I know what you are working with...ha ha...we are twins!

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