Sunday, September 15, 2013

Quick update ~ Am I doing BeaJay's Scary September Sewing Challenge?

I didn't think about joining BeaJay's Scary September Sewing Challenge as I don't think of sewing as scary. If you're interested check out http://ontheroadtosewwear.blogspot.com/ That said, I think all sewing is a matter of following direction. But fitting, now that's scary! So I may have joined without knowing it. :P}}

I am working on bras. I've made my own bras before, but at a few different sizes. When I got where I thought I was staying, I had a custom drafted bra pattern made so I didn't have to deal with that bugaboo... FIT. But the custom draft doesn't fit this body, darn it. So I am reinventing the wheel.

I am frustrated that my body is not cooperating in fitting the things I make. :P}} It should be that I make things and my body cooperates in fitting into them instead of vice versa.

One more task to figure out. Is someone trying to tell me to be more flexible in my thinking?

Got my first bra done. Wild kit, not my style at all, but a good trial garment. Band slightly too small.


Upper cups need to be completely redrafted to bring the outside edge where the straps attach inside by 2 1/2"! As I was scratching my head trying to figure out where I went wrong, I pulled my custom drafted bra pattern out to look at it versus the newer OTC by the same designer.

Danglez by the way.  LOVE HER and her patterns. I don't think she's doing custom patterns any more darn it! But she does have OTC patterns still among other things.
http://www.danglez.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=47 
The OTC band is straight. My custom band curves. A LOT. The curves on the band and cups bring the strap area in towards the center of the body. With my narrow sloping shoulders that's what is needed. These are the only bras I have ever owned that the straps, particularly the left one, don't fall off my shoulders continuously all day.

Custom Draft Curved bottom band 



OTC Draft Straight bottom band
 
Going to try to figure this out.
Next band may be of muslin until I get the curves figured out.
You may be seeing multiple tries on this blog until I get it right.

Onward and upward!
 


 

5 comments:

  1. Hi, Linda
    Can you please tell us who did the custom bra draft for you and do you know if they're still providing that service? Thanks Susan C

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  2. I bought it from Danglez. Website above. Unfortunately, I believe she's no longer in business. It couldn't have been cost effective as I don't think she charged extra for the custom above her regular draft. You could try the above listed website though and see if you could contact her.
    Super nice lady!

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  3. Wow - bras are definitely scary. I am going to add you to the list! Loving the look of the "wild" bra.

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  4. I admire all you people that make bras - although I think I am going to have to learn as well - no-one seems to stock little sizes where I live anymore! I do think you are brave - but I understand the reason why - no good buying something that does not fit.

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  5. The hardest part of bra making besides fitting, is the exact stitching. I have a 1/4 inch foot generally used for quilting and use that and my topstitching foot more than anything else.

    Generally, you will need to get specific findings for bras, and most places don't carry much, however, there are several places on line that sell kits and patterns.

    What I know of follows, but may be an outdated list:

    In the US, both Monica Bravo and Anne St. Clair do workshops and classes. Monica Bravo in California. Anne St. Clair is in Kansas at Needlenook Fabrics. Bra Makers Supply in Canada is my favorite as they have more typically RTW supplies and I think usually better quality. Sew Sassy is in Alabama with lots of stuff. Fabric Depot in Texas. Booby Traps in Australia. Kantje Boord in the Netherlands. La Lopez in the Netherlands. Make Bra in Finland. Merckwaerdigh in the Netherlands. Sewing Chest in the UK. Sewy in Germany. Spitzen Paradie in Germany. and The English Couture Company in the UK.

    Once you have a custom fit bra, you'll never go back to "okay" fitting bras!

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