Wanted to keep you in the loop on the bra construction. I made the second bra out of another kit I had and the entire time kept wondering "what was I thinking?" I do know someone would love this fabric, but it is not I.
The band was right, but I still needed to adjust the cups so the upper edge was correct and the straps wound up in the right place for my body. So that one was a wash also.
Bras seem to be much more difficult than even fitting a bodice. There are so many variations on breast size, configuration, more in the top, more in the bottom, hanging out the side, round or conical, that it becomes a big trial and error process. I did timely enough see a book listed on Canada College website that I purchased as a download for my kindle and also my desktop. It's called "Demystifying bra fitting and construction." http://www.amazon.com/Demystifying-Bra-Fitting-Construction-ebook/dp/B00C9QYV3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379692363&sr=8-1&keywords=demystifying+bra+fitting+and+construction It did give me some insight into alterations that might work on this particular model. I may try that later. I do have a bit of a lingerie sewing stash to put it mildly! LOL
It was extremely frustrating to have to complete an entire bra to find out it didn't fit. A LOT of thinking and puzzling and visualizing over the next 12 hours finally gave me the proverbial light bulb moment. Finally, I realized that since I had the band correct, I could take my old paper pattern from my custom bra, pin the cups together, and hold it up to my body to see how to adjust the cups to fit. Voila! I did so, measured the distance that needed to be altered to make them fit now, and cut a "muslin" for the cups. I cut the cups out of a scrap I had from a cotton interlock I used for a tank, and sewed them together, then basted them into the band so I could see if they were going to work. Both my husband and I think I have it nailed.
So, next thing you see will hopefully be a completed bra in my size that fits me well. Can't wait. It will be another one of the kits I bought with a patterned cup. Just can't get away from those quite yet. But soon I hope. Want to be sure before I cut into my beautiful dyed to match fabrics that I have it right, and even though it worked well in the cotton interlock, the lycra may be a little different fit. But it should definitely be a wearable muslin at the least. I'm feeling very positive at this point! I'll take some pictures of the process for those that find bra making scary. :P}}
And, BTW, I did send a message to Dini at Danglez to see if she's still making custom bra patterns. I'll let you know if I get a response. It still says they are shutting down on the website, and I noted many of her patterns are no longer listed. So, we'll see and I'll keep you updated.