Style Arc Carlisle Jeans for Pattern Review June Jeans contest.

On June 1, I was looking at Pattern Review for the first time in a very long time, and saw  they are having a June Jeans contest. I've been wanting to make a pair of jeans for a very long time, and figured this was the encouragement I needed.  

Got on the internet and started looking for a woven jeans pattern, non-stretch, with a waistband at my actual waist. Finally found the Style Arc Carlisle jeans (thanks to the extensive list on the PR inspiration post,) which is exactly what I want. Pulled out some denim from stash, purchased from Mood in 2019, and figured I'd give it a go despite being away for the wedding for 10 days from the 4th to 14th. 

Don't know if I'll actually finish, but even if I go beyond June, having a well fitting pair of jeans will be awesome!  Pattern has been put together, quick initial muslin made, pattern alteratons done to back, and going to do one more muslin to be sure. We'll see! I also washed and dried the fabric on hot three times to eliminate future shrinkage. Hint from a former sewing guru. 

Taping pattern together

Muslin 1 front-Not bad, but too short.

Sorry about the writing on back thigh. Initial adjustments: I took out 1/4" at top of back yoke tapering to zero at seamline. Thenext adjustment was a knock knee adjustment to eliminate folds from hip downward. That consisted of a wedge adding about 5/8" to inseam at inner thigh, removing from outer seam. The method was found on line at Half Moon Atlier from a post in February of 2021 at https://www.halfmoonatelier.com/blogs/news/halfmoon-101-jeans-knock-knee-adjustments

#2 adjustment was to add a wedge about an inch above the back crotch seam at the center back tapering to zero at hip to give additional back length. This is an adjustment I picked up somewhere on correcting back crotch curves. I also added about 1 1/2" back in leg length because my initial length estimate was too short for me. 

I have the second muslin cut out but with temps over 105, my energy is minimal so I may wait to put it together in the morning, and do as residents of hot climates do elsewhere. That's nap!

More soon!

As Time Goes By--Long post!

 Can't believe times is speeding by at the rate it seems to be. While I haven't been blogging, I have been sewing. 

Firstly, I got not one, but two of the Pamela's Cap Sleeve shells done. First was in a chalk stripe from Blackbird Fabrics. It's still awaiting a decision whether to keep or revise. LOVE the fabric. This was my initial garment. I had shortened front and back at both the above the bust line, as well as below the bust. However, I didn't get the initial shortening above the bust just right, and wound up taking off the original sleeve binding and adding a "yoke" both front and back to remove an additional full inch. I used the neck facings on this one. Then I decided I wanted cuffs instead of the binding, and that's what I'm not sure about. I may remove them and go back to the sleeve binding. Not quite sure just yet. 

Second Pamela's is out of a lovely navy polka dot cotton. It's from stash, purchased 2/2/14 from what was originally Michael Levine, website https://lowpricefabric.com/ whose link now takes you to Fashon Fabrics Club.com. On this one, I got the above the bust shorten right, and bound the neck and armholes. I've worn it a few times already, and am thinking I need to tweak the neckline fit just a bit. Not positive just yet. I do like it very much and it fits into my blue capsule quite nicely. 

Then on to the wedding "dress." As per prior post, the Lekala dress was a no go. I must have initially ordered it in the covid weight loss period when I was about 15 pounds lighter than I am right now. Instead of trying to enlarge the body and reduce neck/shoulders, I moved on to the Simplicity Amazing Fit #2174.

I had thought to use View C with the sweetheart neckline and short sleeves. The muslin showed the shoulders so wide they were almost falling off my admittedly very narrow shoulders. When I narrowed the neck/shoulders to fit my body, the sweetheart neckline pretty much disappeared into a strange kind of dip at center front. So I switched it out to a square neckline. I made up a "wearable muslin" in a pretty geometric rayon challis from Minerva I'd purchased back in July of 2022. I altered the pattern to eliminate the waist seam and just be a dress that flares from the waistline to hem. Front doesn't look too bad, but I had a lot of work to get the back to fit properly. It's awaiting further adjustments at this time. Note to self: Pay attention to back width across upper back!

Wish I'd noticed the back width in the muslin. But I think this will make a great summer dress when I get that back adjusted! 

I was getting frustrated at this point, and thought I'd go with my typical skirt and blouse so I'd actually be able to finish something before the weding! I used the already fitted In House Patterns Lila blouse and the 6 gore skirt (free pattern!) from Lekala patterns. I switched out the sleeve to make a flutter sleeve, which worked great! Love the skirt, although I did get it a little large in the waist. Measuring 6 gores seems to be a problem for me. I'll need to go back and reduce each gore by about 1/8" to get it perfect. But that is on the back burner for now. It is definitely wearable as is. 

Hope your sewing is moving along nicely! More later,