Second of three & New Project

Here's the next tee. Same Pamela's Perfect tee pattern with 3/4 sleeves, TNT pattern, slightly smaller. 

Fabric is from Sew Much Fabric, marked as Scarlet/Sand/Sky Blue Abstract Viscose Jersey Knit. Purchased 8/8/23, so relatively new. Another just wonderful fabric that will go with pretty much everything I own. 

Started 10/30/24 with distractions completed 11/25/24. I've gone back to my dated (20 year old?) Pfaff as it does what I want when I want it to.

Due to an unexpected upcoming nust attend Christmas Party, next up is a jacket from Butterick #5719. I have made it before and think the fit is okay. I'll use the long sleeves, shorter version, probably without pockets. 

Fabric is from Stash. Purchased on sale from Vogue Fabrics 6/30/20. Still relatively new. I have 2 1/2 yards at 56" wide. 

Description: Undulating hues of indigo and winter white create the visual texture in this fantastic cotton suiting. It has a silver thread lurex woven through for a little sparkle. I think I have royal blue bemberg somewhere I can use for lining.

Wish me luck!

PSA Beware!

Be aware--If you are still naive enough to use PayPal they will allow scammers with your email and address to steal money from you.

All of my information was in a data breach by AT&T in March of this year. It included my full Name, SSN, date of birth, address, email, password, etc. I have been dealing with fraud since them on multiple fronts, including them stealing from my savings account, false charges, changing log ins, passwords, and recovery information on multiple accounts, and most distressing, changing the auto deposit on my social security check.
There were six charges in one day on my PayPal account amounting to almost $610. I have never made that many charges in one day in over 20 years of using PayPal. I disputed the charges and their response was that since I had used that email and address on other charges they were valid. Duh! Required information for PayPal.
After that, I disputed with Citicard which was my default payment method as I thought that protected me from fraud. Wrong. Citicard bought their bullshit and I got a charge for something called Mint Mobile.
Both accounts are now closed. Don't take a chance.
One of the charges at least came from someone at Sewing Parts Online in Dickenson, Tennessee, because the woman who tried a recurring monthly charge to my account used a delivery tracking number from them.
Be aware. Elder abuse and theft is being aided and abetted by PayPal and Citibank!

The US election this week was the cherry on top!😡

Some fun tees

Pallet cleanser after the jeans trauma! A quick TNT tee shirt for fall-winter. It’s my ever present much modified and used Pamela’s Perfect Tee shirt with the crew neck and ¾ sleeves. No new modifications. Machine stitched, then serged all seams, bound the neck. Machine sewn hems. 

Fabric is a lovely Organic Cotton Jersey in royal blue with yellow, gray, white and black named “Midnight in Paris” purchased in May 2023 from Gorgeous Fabrics. It did roll like crazy and even heavy starch didn’t help. It feels wonderful, irons like a dream, and looks gorgeous in my opinion.

 I think it’s going to get a lot of usage!

The trauma has eased enough for me to recount the jeans journey!

This shall evermore be "the saga of the cursed jeans" in my mind. Over the years, I've made several pair of jeans and despite all of the topstitching, don't find them difficult to make. Time consuming, yes. Difficult, no.

That is all in the past, however. I started on the Carlisle jeans by taping my pattern together just before the first of June, and got my muslin cut out, then left for California for a granddaughter's wedding for about 10 days. I foolishly thought I'd just hand baste the muslin together and get it fit before our return. That didn't happen at all.

We did have a glorious time in the LA area, with lots of good food, visits with family, and a little bit of sightseeing. Not nearly what I wanted to see, but driving was difficult at our ages, and my little dog decided if I was sitting, it was so she could be in my lap. She loves road trips, but does get a little bit clingy~

I had forgotten how bad my allergies are in California, and since we stayed at Venice Beach, the dampness really got my arthritis going wild. By the time we got back, I wasn't in much shape to sew. It took about a week and I got going. The muslin was good. Some minor alterations were made, but overall the best fit I've had out of the "envelope" in a long time. 

BUT...my expensive Bernina machine did not like the denim, and gave me fits. In addition, I had purchased Gutterman topstitching thread, and it just wasn't going to cooperate. I had three spools, and it shredded so much, probably an entire spool went into the trash in small pieces. That was despite trying jeans needles, and even microtex needles. I took the Bernina in for service and it didn't help at all just left me without the main machine for 2 weeks. 

I continued to bungle through. Tore out topstitching multiple times and this pattern calls for a LOT of topstitching. Finally got to the waistband, and the Bernina would not sew it. After the third time of having giant thread nests on the waistband, finally went back to my 20 year old +/- Pfaff and got it sewn on. In a fit of insanity, I thought the Bernina would do a better job on the buttonhole. NOT! First try I got about 3/8 inch along before the thread nests appeared. Long story short, the first waistband went on three times, and was removed three times. It was so bad the waistband got stuck in the feed dogs and by the time I got it loose, I realized that a major hole had developed. I recut the waistband, and sewed it on with the Pfaff, and made the buttonhole with that machine also. It did a better job on the denim. 

Meanwhile, without thinking about things, I had joined a local chapter of TOPS or "take off pounds sensibly." My goal is to drop all my excess baggage over the next year. Having the group support and the accountability works for me much better than being out here by myself. I know what to do, but doing it on my own, I get bored, and with no accountability, after a week or a month, just forget about it. However, I do need to be healthy enough to walk and enjoy the rest of my life. The weight was really starting to become an issue with my knees and ankles. I'm very happy to report it is doing what I need it to do and I'm enjoying making new friends and having a place to go once a week to socialize with ladies I'm becoming friends with. 

And back to the jeans. I finally had them where they needed to be. Not perfect, but good enough. I put them on to take pictures and they slid right down my body and puddled at my feet! Good news, bad news. The jeans were done, but I had lost enough weight they no longer were anywhere near fitting. And there is no way I was going to take them apart to alter them. I had a lightbulb moment! (Admittedly a dim lightbulb, but a lightbulb!) I washed them in hot water and a hot dryer thinking they might shrink up enough to fit. Well, they did shrink, but only in length, not width. 

They have now been relegated to the thrift store pile. I have my muslin and after a few palette cleansing tees, I think I'll get back to it and try again. I do have plenty of fabric to work with! 

They look like jeans, so hopefully someone who needs a pair finds them and loves them for a long time!

More later!

Style Arc Carlisle Jeans for Pattern Review June Jeans contest.

On June 1, I was looking at Pattern Review for the first time in a very long time, and saw  they are having a June Jeans contest. I've been wanting to make a pair of jeans for a very long time, and figured this was the encouragement I needed.  

Got on the internet and started looking for a woven jeans pattern, non-stretch, with a waistband at my actual waist. Finally found the Style Arc Carlisle jeans (thanks to the extensive list on the PR inspiration post,) which is exactly what I want. Pulled out some denim from stash, purchased from Mood in 2019, and figured I'd give it a go despite being away for the wedding for 10 days from the 4th to 14th. 

Don't know if I'll actually finish, but even if I go beyond June, having a well fitting pair of jeans will be awesome!  Pattern has been put together, quick initial muslin made, pattern alteratons done to back, and going to do one more muslin to be sure. We'll see! I also washed and dried the fabric on hot three times to eliminate future shrinkage. Hint from a former sewing guru. 

Taping pattern together

Muslin 1 front-Not bad, but too short.

Sorry about the writing on back thigh. Initial adjustments: I took out 1/4" at top of back yoke tapering to zero at seamline. Thenext adjustment was a knock knee adjustment to eliminate folds from hip downward. That consisted of a wedge adding about 5/8" to inseam at inner thigh, removing from outer seam. The method was found on line at Half Moon Atlier from a post in February of 2021 at https://www.halfmoonatelier.com/blogs/news/halfmoon-101-jeans-knock-knee-adjustments

#2 adjustment was to add a wedge about an inch above the back crotch seam at the center back tapering to zero at hip to give additional back length. This is an adjustment I picked up somewhere on correcting back crotch curves. I also added about 1 1/2" back in leg length because my initial length estimate was too short for me. 

I have the second muslin cut out but with temps over 105, my energy is minimal so I may wait to put it together in the morning, and do as residents of hot climates do elsewhere. That's nap!

More soon!

As Time Goes By--Long post!

 Can't believe times is speeding by at the rate it seems to be. While I haven't been blogging, I have been sewing. 

Firstly, I got not one, but two of the Pamela's Cap Sleeve shells done. First was in a chalk stripe from Blackbird Fabrics. It's still awaiting a decision whether to keep or revise. LOVE the fabric. This was my initial garment. I had shortened front and back at both the above the bust line, as well as below the bust. However, I didn't get the initial shortening above the bust just right, and wound up taking off the original sleeve binding and adding a "yoke" both front and back to remove an additional full inch. I used the neck facings on this one. Then I decided I wanted cuffs instead of the binding, and that's what I'm not sure about. I may remove them and go back to the sleeve binding. Not quite sure just yet. 

Second Pamela's is out of a lovely navy polka dot cotton. It's from stash, purchased 2/2/14 from what was originally Michael Levine, website https://lowpricefabric.com/ whose link now takes you to Fashon Fabrics Club.com. On this one, I got the above the bust shorten right, and bound the neck and armholes. I've worn it a few times already, and am thinking I need to tweak the neckline fit just a bit. Not positive just yet. I do like it very much and it fits into my blue capsule quite nicely. 

Then on to the wedding "dress." As per prior post, the Lekala dress was a no go. I must have initially ordered it in the covid weight loss period when I was about 15 pounds lighter than I am right now. Instead of trying to enlarge the body and reduce neck/shoulders, I moved on to the Simplicity Amazing Fit #2174.

I had thought to use View C with the sweetheart neckline and short sleeves. The muslin showed the shoulders so wide they were almost falling off my admittedly very narrow shoulders. When I narrowed the neck/shoulders to fit my body, the sweetheart neckline pretty much disappeared into a strange kind of dip at center front. So I switched it out to a square neckline. I made up a "wearable muslin" in a pretty geometric rayon challis from Minerva I'd purchased back in July of 2022. I altered the pattern to eliminate the waist seam and just be a dress that flares from the waistline to hem. Front doesn't look too bad, but I had a lot of work to get the back to fit properly. It's awaiting further adjustments at this time. Note to self: Pay attention to back width across upper back!

Wish I'd noticed the back width in the muslin. But I think this will make a great summer dress when I get that back adjusted! 

I was getting frustrated at this point, and thought I'd go with my typical skirt and blouse so I'd actually be able to finish something before the weding! I used the already fitted In House Patterns Lila blouse and the 6 gore skirt (free pattern!) from Lekala patterns. I switched out the sleeve to make a flutter sleeve, which worked great! Love the skirt, although I did get it a little large in the waist. Measuring 6 gores seems to be a problem for me. I'll need to go back and reduce each gore by about 1/8" to get it perfect. But that is on the back burner for now. It is definitely wearable as is. 

Hope your sewing is moving along nicely! More later,

One down, two to go, and maybe more.

 Well, I got my Lekala muslin done, and I don't know whether I measured wrong, or misunderstood their measurement charts, but I'm really disappointed. 

The muslin was too large in the shoulders, and girdle tight everywhere else. I may come back to it, but while my sewing room is STILL under construction, I'm doing a pallet cleanser. 

I purchased Pamela's Cap Sleeve Shell, which is a cute woven top. I did a quick muslin yesterday before work. There is a tiny bit of tweaking that needs to be done. I need to shorten the top above the bust line both front and back, and the pattern has markings for that alteration. I'll do that if I have time before work today and try on again. I'd also like to change the shoulder point slightly, and will be looking at alterations for a raglan sleeve today. The narrow shoulders saga once again. My search for cap sleeve adjustments didn't elicit any helpful information as yet. 

I think this pattern, like my TNT Pamela's Perfect Tee Shirt will become a staple in my closet and wardrobe. It fits my aesthetic quite well, fits our late Spring-Summer-Fall weather, and is easy and quick. 

I'm thinking for my "wedding" travel wardrobe, it's a bit more upscale than a tee shirt, and lends itself more to a "Grammy" vibe. Here's a picture of the line drawing pattern, not my muslin yet.

You can make either hip length or tunic length, and it comes with darted or plain fronts. Size range is limited to extra small to extra large, with High Bust measurements from X-Small at 31" to 33"  and X-Large from 43" to 45". I fit fine in the X-Large at this point. The PDF pattern does come with all sizes included, in letter or AO print files, and again, I had The Plotted Pattern print mine on the heavier paper. I am not a fan of pasting pattern sheets together, so the are my go-to if possible. If you would like more information: https://pamelaspatterns.com/products/123-cap-sleeve-shell

Wishing you a fabulous day!

And then there were sweatpants! And planning!

 Not a huge accomplishment, although a needed part of the wardrobe. I got them cut out, and then the sewing room went into husband disarray for what was supposed to be a day or so. Three weeks later, and a back injury requiring multiple visits to the chiropractor, I have been informed, he won't be back in there for another 2 weeks. AARGH! 

Before the mess started, I'd cut out a pair of sweatpants from some deep stash sweatshirt fabric. The kind with the nice, fleecey inside. I waited to get started thinking it'd be a couple of days until I could get into the sewing room. After a week, or so, I realized this is going to be anoyher of Dale's projects. Which involves a LOT of procrastination. I rearranged thing so I could get to the sewing machine and ironing board and did a little sewing in my spare time. 

He had told me recently, that I should always add pockets to my pants, so at the minimum I can carry my phone. He's attached to his, and it drives him slightly insane that I don't know where mine is half the time. I'm not one to want to be "on call" 24/7! Anyway, I went ahead and drafted a pocket, kind of a jeans style patch pocket for one side, Have to admit, I kinda like it. Place for dog poop bags at the minimum.👼

I used my heavily modified Burda 6613 pattern, and just added 2 1/2" at the top for a casing. The elastic is two scraps of 2 1/4" non-roll sewn together. As I mentioned, fabric is some nice, heavy sweatshirting fabric from deep stash. 

Moving forward, and I have semi-decided, maybe 80% that I want to use Lekala #2214 for the dress for the wedding. 

I really like the lines of the dress, and I had a similar style many years ago, that I felt made me look taller and more statuesque, which is great when you're only  5' 2" tall. It calls for chiffon sleeves and tie, but it will probably have short self-fabric sleeves and no tie. We'll see.

I bought the dress pattern which comes with both letter size and AO size patterns. Immediately sent the AO off to The Plotted Pattern for full size printing. I got the printed pattern Saturday, and yesterday after finishing the sweats, started getting it ready to make my muslin. I have to work in small increments, and with the sewing room torn up, I'm dancing around a lot of stuff to get things completed. I want to retrace the pattern, and will be adding seam allowances so I can do French seams throughout. 

If IRL this doesn't look like it does in my head, I have two other patterns I may be muslining to see what looks best. The other two are:

Butterick 6660

or Amazing Fit Simplicity 2174

I found this beautiful Viscose in an Instagram post by guthrie-ghani.co.uk and think it will be perfect. I fell in love with it immediately and even though it's in the UK, had to have it. It's wending it's way across the Atlantic and most of the US. Should be here sometime this week.

So I need to get moving. Hopefully, everyone's day is sew fabulous!

January Catch-up

 Despite big plans, January turned out a little light on sewing. 

As of January 5, I'm working for TurboTax. Love the company and the product. I had a very intense 2 weeks of training, which left me ga-ga at the end of the day, and went live as a full service tax expert January 23. I am doing general reviews and help, as well as actually preparing tax returns virtually. The taxes were no problem, although we have all 50 states which is new, but there is a lot of other software in use, most of which was new to me, and not basic programs. I'll still be learning the ins and outs of those probably throughout the year.

Because I'm working virtually, my top half needs to be professional, but downstairs is either jeans or sweatpants. I have pulled out my collared shirts, and thankfully, our dress code requirements are more relaxed than the prior company. Nice tee shirts are okay. 

I cut out a brown tee and somehow, (insert head scratch,) got the center front about 2" larger than it should have been. Got very frustrated, and set it aside for a while, while I was mulling a fix in the back of my head. Finally the light bulb lit. I pinned out the excess, and made an inside pleat at the front neck. Hooray! It worked perfectly, and the balance of the tee got finished on a Saturday when I wasn't working. It's a lovely cotton jersey purchased from Vogue Fabrics in September of 2021. As usual, it's my much altered Pamela's Perfect Tee shirt pattern. Added some flare at the front, from bust dart to hem, and about 1/2" at the side backs, armholes to hem. We had a good Christmas with lots of sweets! 

It fits well, the fabric is really nice to wear, and is in rotation already. 

It has been really cold and damp, and although the central heat runs, I'm having some adverse reactions to the weather, and my arthritis is acting up.

I have cut out a new pair of sweatpants because I realized all of mine are getting pretty old and threadbare, and one had developed a hole in the back seam due to the fabric being just worn out. 

Unfortunately, we're getting a new honeycomb blind in the sewing room, which takes a great deal of effort to install in a 1935 adobe building. Because of a lack of levels being used in construction, and old adobe exterior walls without interior drywall except for closets and such, Dale has had to add wood trim, and special bracing to install the interior mount blinds. There are currently ladders, partially completed wood trim and part of an added shelf above the window. I have been informed there is also some drywall repair that will be done at the same time to the window alcove. It should be done today, as it's my husband's afternoon off. Then a couple of pair of sweatpants, and off to more fun sewing.

I have a granddaughter getting married in June in the Los Angeles area, and there is mental planning going on for a travel wardrobe as well as a dress for the wedding. I'll share more as things come to fruitition. 

Happy sewing! More later,