Style Arc Carlisle Jeans for Pattern Review June Jeans contest.

On June 1, I was looking at Pattern Review for the first time in a very long time, and saw  they are having a June Jeans contest. I've been wanting to make a pair of jeans for a very long time, and figured this was the encouragement I needed.  

Got on the internet and started looking for a woven jeans pattern, non-stretch, with a waistband at my actual waist. Finally found the Style Arc Carlisle jeans (thanks to the extensive list on the PR inspiration post,) which is exactly what I want. Pulled out some denim from stash, purchased from Mood in 2019, and figured I'd give it a go despite being away for the wedding for 10 days from the 4th to 14th. 

Don't know if I'll actually finish, but even if I go beyond June, having a well fitting pair of jeans will be awesome!  Pattern has been put together, quick initial muslin made, pattern alteratons done to back, and going to do one more muslin to be sure. We'll see! I also washed and dried the fabric on hot three times to eliminate future shrinkage. Hint from a former sewing guru. 

Taping pattern together

Muslin 1 front-Not bad, but too short.

Sorry about the writing on back thigh. Initial adjustments: I took out 1/4" at top of back yoke tapering to zero at seamline. Thenext adjustment was a knock knee adjustment to eliminate folds from hip downward. That consisted of a wedge adding about 5/8" to inseam at inner thigh, removing from outer seam. The method was found on line at Half Moon Atlier from a post in February of 2021 at https://www.halfmoonatelier.com/blogs/news/halfmoon-101-jeans-knock-knee-adjustments

#2 adjustment was to add a wedge about an inch above the back crotch seam at the center back tapering to zero at hip to give additional back length. This is an adjustment I picked up somewhere on correcting back crotch curves. I also added about 1 1/2" back in leg length because my initial length estimate was too short for me. 

I have the second muslin cut out but with temps over 105, my energy is minimal so I may wait to put it together in the morning, and do as residents of hot climates do elsewhere. That's nap!

More soon!

As Time Goes By--Long post!

 Can't believe times is speeding by at the rate it seems to be. While I haven't been blogging, I have been sewing. 

Firstly, I got not one, but two of the Pamela's Cap Sleeve shells done. First was in a chalk stripe from Blackbird Fabrics. It's still awaiting a decision whether to keep or revise. LOVE the fabric. This was my initial garment. I had shortened front and back at both the above the bust line, as well as below the bust. However, I didn't get the initial shortening above the bust just right, and wound up taking off the original sleeve binding and adding a "yoke" both front and back to remove an additional full inch. I used the neck facings on this one. Then I decided I wanted cuffs instead of the binding, and that's what I'm not sure about. I may remove them and go back to the sleeve binding. Not quite sure just yet. 

Second Pamela's is out of a lovely navy polka dot cotton. It's from stash, purchased 2/2/14 from what was originally Michael Levine, website https://lowpricefabric.com/ whose link now takes you to Fashon Fabrics Club.com. On this one, I got the above the bust shorten right, and bound the neck and armholes. I've worn it a few times already, and am thinking I need to tweak the neckline fit just a bit. Not positive just yet. I do like it very much and it fits into my blue capsule quite nicely. 

Then on to the wedding "dress." As per prior post, the Lekala dress was a no go. I must have initially ordered it in the covid weight loss period when I was about 15 pounds lighter than I am right now. Instead of trying to enlarge the body and reduce neck/shoulders, I moved on to the Simplicity Amazing Fit #2174.

I had thought to use View C with the sweetheart neckline and short sleeves. The muslin showed the shoulders so wide they were almost falling off my admittedly very narrow shoulders. When I narrowed the neck/shoulders to fit my body, the sweetheart neckline pretty much disappeared into a strange kind of dip at center front. So I switched it out to a square neckline. I made up a "wearable muslin" in a pretty geometric rayon challis from Minerva I'd purchased back in July of 2022. I altered the pattern to eliminate the waist seam and just be a dress that flares from the waistline to hem. Front doesn't look too bad, but I had a lot of work to get the back to fit properly. It's awaiting further adjustments at this time. Note to self: Pay attention to back width across upper back!

Wish I'd noticed the back width in the muslin. But I think this will make a great summer dress when I get that back adjusted! 

I was getting frustrated at this point, and thought I'd go with my typical skirt and blouse so I'd actually be able to finish something before the weding! I used the already fitted In House Patterns Lila blouse and the 6 gore skirt (free pattern!) from Lekala patterns. I switched out the sleeve to make a flutter sleeve, which worked great! Love the skirt, although I did get it a little large in the waist. Measuring 6 gores seems to be a problem for me. I'll need to go back and reduce each gore by about 1/8" to get it perfect. But that is on the back burner for now. It is definitely wearable as is. 

Hope your sewing is moving along nicely! More later,

One down, two to go, and maybe more.

 Well, I got my Lekala muslin done, and I don't know whether I measured wrong, or misunderstood their measurement charts, but I'm really disappointed. 

The muslin was too large in the shoulders, and girdle tight everywhere else. I may come back to it, but while my sewing room is STILL under construction, I'm doing a pallet cleanser. 

I purchased Pamela's Cap Sleeve Shell, which is a cute woven top. I did a quick muslin yesterday before work. There is a tiny bit of tweaking that needs to be done. I need to shorten the top above the bust line both front and back, and the pattern has markings for that alteration. I'll do that if I have time before work today and try on again. I'd also like to change the shoulder point slightly, and will be looking at alterations for a raglan sleeve today. The narrow shoulders saga once again. My search for cap sleeve adjustments didn't elicit any helpful information as yet. 

I think this pattern, like my TNT Pamela's Perfect Tee Shirt will become a staple in my closet and wardrobe. It fits my aesthetic quite well, fits our late Spring-Summer-Fall weather, and is easy and quick. 

I'm thinking for my "wedding" travel wardrobe, it's a bit more upscale than a tee shirt, and lends itself more to a "Grammy" vibe. Here's a picture of the line drawing pattern, not my muslin yet.

You can make either hip length or tunic length, and it comes with darted or plain fronts. Size range is limited to extra small to extra large, with High Bust measurements from X-Small at 31" to 33"  and X-Large from 43" to 45". I fit fine in the X-Large at this point. The PDF pattern does come with all sizes included, in letter or AO print files, and again, I had The Plotted Pattern print mine on the heavier paper. I am not a fan of pasting pattern sheets together, so the are my go-to if possible. If you would like more information: https://pamelaspatterns.com/products/123-cap-sleeve-shell

Wishing you a fabulous day!

And then there were sweatpants! And planning!

 Not a huge accomplishment, although a needed part of the wardrobe. I got them cut out, and then the sewing room went into husband disarray for what was supposed to be a day or so. Three weeks later, and a back injury requiring multiple visits to the chiropractor, I have been informed, he won't be back in there for another 2 weeks. AARGH! 

Before the mess started, I'd cut out a pair of sweatpants from some deep stash sweatshirt fabric. The kind with the nice, fleecey inside. I waited to get started thinking it'd be a couple of days until I could get into the sewing room. After a week, or so, I realized this is going to be anoyher of Dale's projects. Which involves a LOT of procrastination. I rearranged thing so I could get to the sewing machine and ironing board and did a little sewing in my spare time. 

He had told me recently, that I should always add pockets to my pants, so at the minimum I can carry my phone. He's attached to his, and it drives him slightly insane that I don't know where mine is half the time. I'm not one to want to be "on call" 24/7! Anyway, I went ahead and drafted a pocket, kind of a jeans style patch pocket for one side, Have to admit, I kinda like it. Place for dog poop bags at the minimum.👼

I used my heavily modified Burda 6613 pattern, and just added 2 1/2" at the top for a casing. The elastic is two scraps of 2 1/4" non-roll sewn together. As I mentioned, fabric is some nice, heavy sweatshirting fabric from deep stash. 

Moving forward, and I have semi-decided, maybe 80% that I want to use Lekala #2214 for the dress for the wedding. 

I really like the lines of the dress, and I had a similar style many years ago, that I felt made me look taller and more statuesque, which is great when you're only  5' 2" tall. It calls for chiffon sleeves and tie, but it will probably have short self-fabric sleeves and no tie. We'll see.

I bought the dress pattern which comes with both letter size and AO size patterns. Immediately sent the AO off to The Plotted Pattern for full size printing. I got the printed pattern Saturday, and yesterday after finishing the sweats, started getting it ready to make my muslin. I have to work in small increments, and with the sewing room torn up, I'm dancing around a lot of stuff to get things completed. I want to retrace the pattern, and will be adding seam allowances so I can do French seams throughout. 

If IRL this doesn't look like it does in my head, I have two other patterns I may be muslining to see what looks best. The other two are:

Butterick 6660

or Amazing Fit Simplicity 2174

I found this beautiful Viscose in an Instagram post by guthrie-ghani.co.uk and think it will be perfect. I fell in love with it immediately and even though it's in the UK, had to have it. It's wending it's way across the Atlantic and most of the US. Should be here sometime this week.

So I need to get moving. Hopefully, everyone's day is sew fabulous!

January Catch-up

 Despite big plans, January turned out a little light on sewing. 

As of January 5, I'm working for TurboTax. Love the company and the product. I had a very intense 2 weeks of training, which left me ga-ga at the end of the day, and went live as a full service tax expert January 23. I am doing general reviews and help, as well as actually preparing tax returns virtually. The taxes were no problem, although we have all 50 states which is new, but there is a lot of other software in use, most of which was new to me, and not basic programs. I'll still be learning the ins and outs of those probably throughout the year.

Because I'm working virtually, my top half needs to be professional, but downstairs is either jeans or sweatpants. I have pulled out my collared shirts, and thankfully, our dress code requirements are more relaxed than the prior company. Nice tee shirts are okay. 

I cut out a brown tee and somehow, (insert head scratch,) got the center front about 2" larger than it should have been. Got very frustrated, and set it aside for a while, while I was mulling a fix in the back of my head. Finally the light bulb lit. I pinned out the excess, and made an inside pleat at the front neck. Hooray! It worked perfectly, and the balance of the tee got finished on a Saturday when I wasn't working. It's a lovely cotton jersey purchased from Vogue Fabrics in September of 2021. As usual, it's my much altered Pamela's Perfect Tee shirt pattern. Added some flare at the front, from bust dart to hem, and about 1/2" at the side backs, armholes to hem. We had a good Christmas with lots of sweets! 

It fits well, the fabric is really nice to wear, and is in rotation already. 

It has been really cold and damp, and although the central heat runs, I'm having some adverse reactions to the weather, and my arthritis is acting up.

I have cut out a new pair of sweatpants because I realized all of mine are getting pretty old and threadbare, and one had developed a hole in the back seam due to the fabric being just worn out. 

Unfortunately, we're getting a new honeycomb blind in the sewing room, which takes a great deal of effort to install in a 1935 adobe building. Because of a lack of levels being used in construction, and old adobe exterior walls without interior drywall except for closets and such, Dale has had to add wood trim, and special bracing to install the interior mount blinds. There are currently ladders, partially completed wood trim and part of an added shelf above the window. I have been informed there is also some drywall repair that will be done at the same time to the window alcove. It should be done today, as it's my husband's afternoon off. Then a couple of pair of sweatpants, and off to more fun sewing.

I have a granddaughter getting married in June in the Los Angeles area, and there is mental planning going on for a travel wardrobe as well as a dress for the wedding. I'll share more as things come to fruitition. 

Happy sewing! More later, 

At Last!

Imagine the song "At Last..."

 It's FINALLY completed. Not perfect, but done. My first and probably only queen size homemade quilt.

Begun 5-24-2014 in a Jelly Roll Race class at the Quilted Heart in Vacaville, CA

Worked on intermittently throughout 2022

                    Long Arm quilted at ThreadBear in Las Cruces, NM March 2023

                    Finished at home in Las Cruces, NM 12/26/23.

Finally I can move on and get a few ideas in my head made into garments!

PJ Pants

 

Okay, they are done. Started late last winter out of some deep stash black flannel. Got one front cut out...had to cut single layer due to width of flannel versus pattern pieces. Put them aside for the baby quilt, then the face plant fall, which took a long time to recover from, and so on and so on. 

When I got back to them, I had to do a major clean and search of the sewing room to find the fabric, the initial front piece, etc. I'm still not able to stand and/or work for extended periods, so it took a while to get them cut out. By the time I was ready to sew, I was thinking I had used the flat front Loes Hinse Oxford pants pattern, so just went ahead with sewing. I left out the back darts since it was going onto an elastic waist, and it's pajamas. I rarely use pattern instructions since I've made more than a hundred pair of pants over the years. 

I wanted an elastic waist with drawstring, so measured around me and just put the waistband together. Wound up pinning and removing the waistband several times. Pants waist was so much bigger than the waistband!?! I hadn't stitched the back darts, so I stitched them in. Pinned again. Still way too much pants for the waistband. Set them aside and did some mending, ironing and other things.

When I took Don McCunn's pants pattern drafting class, I remember him saying for the best outcome, waistband should be about 1" smaller than the top of the pants. These were waaay off!

After much head scratching and procrastination, I realized I'd used Burda 6613 instead of the Oxford pants pattern. A while back, I'd added a wide front pleat to the Burda pattern, which added about 6" to the front pattern when both sides were included. Aha! Sewing in the pleats made it reasonable to ease the waistband onto my pants. 

So they are finally done, and I'm ready to move forward with some of the myriad garments swirlling around in my head. So onward!

Interesting Year

Not much sewing happening this year. Took a pretty serious fall in the Spring which took several months out of my year. It was just as I was getting towards the end of my Kayla class, and everything was set aside as I spent an inordinate amount of time at the Chiropractor's office and in bed with pain meds. I'm now on monthly maintenance visits with him.

I finally finished my first Kayla wearable muslin, which needed a bit more work. The upper chest area was too wide, and I think the neckline needs to come back up 1/4" in the front. The rayon challis is a little too soft and drapey for this style, and I realized that with aging, my colors have changed and I look very washed out in the tans/cream/beiges I have worn most of my life. I love this fabric and had been saving it for the perfect garment. It's from very old stash, I think mid 90's? SIGH. This is the first Kayla: 

Have the adjustments done and some chambray for the second one. It's in the "to be" pile along with several other items. 

I did a quick dress from the Kwik Sew for Toddlers for my great granddaughter, but found out she hates pulling tight necklines over head. She does love the dress though. The fabric is from Gorgeous Fabrics, and as soon as I saw it I knew it was for her. She loves bunnies, and her daddy calls her "bunny" as a nickname. 

I have the jelly roll quilt back from the long arm folks and it just needs the binding which will be done soon. Have a WIP of a pair of black flannel pj pants up next that needs to be completed as we are coming into cool and cold weatther.

I have just finished another outfit for my great granddaughter. I had enough of the bunny fabric left, and my granddaughter said it wouldn't be too much of one fabric if I did leggings and a tee. Again, it's from the very old Kwik Sew booklet, Sewing for Toddlers. I did the knit pants and used the tee shirt pattern with front yoke and turned it into a modified henley. The collar and arm inserts are navy mini rib knit. I think she'l love it. 

I've been tweaking my sewing room again, and trying to get more organized as we're moving out of the hot month and into my prime sewing times. Today the fan moves to storage until next spring. I have lots of new clothes ideas swirling in my head and hope to see many of them come to fruition. 

I'll try to be better about keeping up with the blog.